You need to be careful how much you impede the natural flow of water off your neighbor's yard. If your property is downhill of your neighbor's, the water flows naturally from his property to yours. You could find yourself in legal jeopardy if you dam up or otherwise prevent that natural flow. On the other side of the coin, your up-hill neighbor can not, ...


So put a drain channel along the edge of the fence - even a trench filled with gravel can help. Then create some raised beds where you can control the water ie humidity and it can help with pests as well.


A small trench may not help, but most certainly a full-on dry well with some French Drain buried along the property boundary will do the trick. That's a lot of work, but it is the solution. Keep in mind that your low veggie garden will get flooded every time there's a serious rainstorm, due to the slope of the land. You might as well find a solution that ...


A quick and easy solution would be to get a 2" x 12" x 10' P.T.board and bury it a few inches into the ground along the fence and screw it into the bottom of the fence. You could extend it as far as you needed along the fence. Get a board rated for ground contact.


Mulch. Put a pile of fine wood mulch just inside your fenceline, about 2' wide and 6" high, it will serve as a physical barrier but allow the water to soak in. That way you allow the water to flow onto your property and provide a simple place for storage. If you put a thick layer of mulch on your garden it will soak up the water and release it slowly ...


I recommend the Saw Guide by Lounsbury Products. The guide makes it easy to use a circular saw and make precise cuts along the gap between decking without wandering or gouging into the boards. Watch this video to see how it works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6K-g1KjRqUQ


I used a post hole digger and made a small leech pit right under the 90 on mine. Filled it with gravel and drilled a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the 90. After it rains the water can drain out and absorb into the dirt.


You can go high or low, but I'd also think about partnering with your neighbor to solve your problem as a first step. Use of potable water to grow turf grasses is about the most ignorant thing anyone can do with it, but notwithstanding that, no turf grass requires THAT much watering, so you might encourage him to allow it to grow a bit longer, use a mulching ...


We are concerned with the soil directly below a retaining wall AND we’re concerned with the type of soil that abuts a retaining wall. There are 3 types of retaining walls: 1) cantilever, 2) gravity, and 3) counterfort and buttressed. 1) You have been building a cantilever type retaining wall. There are two types: the type where you put something down ...


The soil below the wall is only supporting the weight of the wall. The segmental block will have layers of geo fabric every 8" or so. Basically there is not lateral force on the wall. Since no lateral the foundation is simple, and the weight of the those big blocks is nearly the same of the soil that used to be there, bad soil has some 1000-1500 psf capacity....


No problem with too much gravel. You could level it out toward the right a bit to get the gravel off the support structures for the skirting but i don't see that as a problem. The problems I usually see are not enough gravel.


Try building a small earth mound with a slight depression along the ~20' fence line (seems like there is already a depression). Depending on how much overwatering is occurring it could give the ground enough time to absorb it. Bonus points for finding plants that can handle excessively wet soil and planting them in the earth mound. Types Of Plants That ...

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