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Gurgling can be due to a plugged vent rather than blockage in the liquid carrying line. You could take a hose up on the roof and run water down some vents. (Experts probably know a better way to detect and open up a clogged vent.)


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U traps of this type are meant to be installed unaltered. The problem isn't the trap it's that the waste pipe in the wall was installed too high ( if you have a normal counter top height). The easiest way to fix this is to change the kitchen sink strainer assembly and install one like this. The other possible fix is to find a dishwasher tailpiece that is ...


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It is acting as a vent, it should be above the the sanitary tee. In a washing machine drain set up the Drain goes to a Ptrap and then into the side inlet of the san tee, Vent goes out from top of tee to vent or an AAV.


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For anyone curious about this; this isn't a traditional tub drain. Usually they unscrew and can be lifted out of the hole so that they can be replaced. https://www.instructables.com/Replacing-Bath-Tub-Drain/ I am not sure how common this style of drain is, but to fix you need to cut out the drain from below.


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Debris is more likely to settle in the second trap due to lower drain velocity at that point It's more difficult to clear debris there because you can't conveniently disassemble the trap System cleanout with an auger is impeded by the extra trap bends, which tend to be sharper than other underground bends


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Better yet, compost your food waste with an outdoor worm bin using red squiggler worms to digest the food compost into a wonderful soil amendment. Google "vermiculture". You will use your garbage disposal less and less. I can provide easy diy instructions in another question, perhaps in gardening section.


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When I have had a room gutted like yours I try to do the best job I can for the future. You plan isn’t bad but I think you can do better. If that galvanized pipe is bad enough that it is a poor drain the it might not be much better as a vent. Can’t tell by the photo but it looks like 2 “ pipe. One method to change the pipe with PVC in a confined area is to ...


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You would probably be better served by putting the compost material in the bucket directly and skip the complex methods. What happens if you leave the diverter in "compost" mode, and someone (sleepy you at 3am, a guest, etc) just starts running water? You'll end up with water in your bucket, potentially overflowing into your cabinet & ruining ...


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Absolutley there is such a thing. you want a "greywater diverter" valve. Many styles are available. but I recommend you pick a different location for the bucket as forgetting the valve could get messy and expensive.


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In a word, no, it can't be a root problem on the main line if it's only one of the two toilets that backs up. It's a drain or vent problem local to that toilet, or possibly something IN that toilet which is blocking flow but eluding the auger/snake. Think toothbrush, toy, ball, whatever: flushed and caught in the trapway rather than passing through. You ...


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I have been using washer hose reducers in some of my older rentals. There is no damage to the pump and actually reduces the load on the pump due to the reduce amount of water it has to pump. You have to test how small you need to reduce by running a draining cycle and wait to see if it starts to overflow. Works great.


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Generally speaking: A Stack (even if it's vented) is not a Vent if it has a toilet on it above the point you want to use it as a vent. Older installs may not respect this. There were problems with not respecting this, code changed to solve them. You can run a (dry) vent up to a point "6 inches (or more) above the flood rim of the highest fixture on the ...


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The "point" (as is so often the case with plumbing code) is not causing a situation where the drainage from the sink with the longer arm to the trap causes the trap to siphon dry and let sewer gas into the house. Since the drain-holes are 30" apart, that's allowable. If they are more, it's not. Welcome to code compliance. If "more storage&...


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If penetrating oil and mild heat doesn't help, I'd use an impact wrench to try to break that plug free. If you have a friend who is a mechanic they may be able to help you out with this. Otherwise, you can rent them from tool rental yards. A 120V 3/4" one is $21/day near me; and you will most likely need to purchase an appropriately-sized socket (see ...


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Cast pipe and fittings do rust. And when it rusts on a threaded fitting that s not opened for a long while it is basically frozen. Tapping GENTLY around and on the plug while wrenching it open may work. Sometimes wrenching it tight and than loose free's the plug. Heating the hub (outside section where the plug screws into) may help. Don't strike the cast ...


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If it's actually ABS, ABS is soluble in acetone and you should be able to patch the crack by bathing it in 100% acetone nail polish remover for a while to soften it then binding it with rope to press it together as the acetone evaporates out of the plastic.


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If you happen to have one, a 3D printer pen* can act like a plastic welder in this case. I would recommend against doing this for PVC, but ABS is what those pens often already use. I'd first drill a tiny hole, as I suggested in a comment on Ecnerwal good answer. It doesn't have to be large, just 1/16" (~2mm) at each end of the crack to relieve stress. ...


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There is a GREAT ABS repair product, you can actually use it to fabricate ABS tanks for RVs and campers, using it to weld-glue abs panels together. The product is called PlastiMend-black. You will need to cease using the upstairs sinks before and for several hours after you apply the patch for it to properly bond. (area need to be dry when applied. the ...


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I agree with @jeff wheeler that all of these temp fixes are more work than a proper repair: go to the hardware store and buy ABS pipe in the same diameter. You can buy it in either 2 foot or 10 foot lengths, whatever is appropriate. Buy two couplers in same diameter, called rubber fernco couplers.. Have store associate show you how to connect them as "...


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Other solutions are good. Especially if pressure within pipe is low. Did pipe crack due to mechanical stress? Pipe may have been bent by forcing it past woodwork etc. New pipe may have same stress if jammed in. Check if other infrastructure installed later is compressing pipe. After temporary fix, and if safe from electricity, wrap rag or something at lower ...


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It looks like they put the primer down without the glue. Clean area, reprime it, get pvc glue, put glue around and jam it in. If the length is not great enough to jam in - it looks a little short or something else moved - then cut about a foot up buy a double female straight joint in that size and if you made your cut straight you can probably use the ...


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That looks like the entire joint has pulled out of the fitting so it is more than just a small leak. You should cut back the pipe that goes into the connector so you can assess the condition inside and then use a new length of pipe and a coupler to reattach to the fitting if it is salvageable.


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Tape it. You are not proposing this kludge as a permanent fix. That's good. The wrap-tape products are good for an emergency bodge, and that's what you are proposing, on a temporary basis. The problem with them is when they manage to stop the leak and then folks decide not to call the plumber (or do the plumbing themselves, whichever) after all. I would also ...


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I would do one of two things, depending on access and tool availability: Make a Pipe Patch Cut a suitable length of scrap 3" pipe, then rip slightly less than half of it out lengthwise. Apply purple primer to the outer surface of the old pipe and the inner surface of the new pipe. Apply pipe cement to those surfaces, then snap the patch in place over ...


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Is the drain line properly vented? there should be a vent line for air a bit after the trap heading up, likely tying into the stack vent line going through the roof? If the drain is within something like 4 feet of the main stack, you dont need a separate vent.


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You can put the dishwasher wherever you want. You will have to provide it with water and a drain that meets code - and it's not at all likely that you can run 17 feet to join the sink drain while meeting code. So you'll have to arrange plumbing to serve the water input and drain output needs of the dishwasher where you want to put it, independent of the sink....


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