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You are likely going to have to access it from below. In general plumbing isn't made to be worked on from the fixture. There are a few operations that are done from there -- tightening to drain is one. But all real work requires access to the other side. You will need to cut through the floor from below. If there isn't sufficient room to do this, you can ...


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As others have suggested, knowing why it backs up is key. For that, a reputable plumber with a camera can find the absolute answer. If it's damaged pipes there is no other long term option than replacing the main. If it's backing up due to bends or joints then installing a cleanout would be the best option for cleaning it out yourself in the future. Then ...


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There is a special wrench that looks like the traditional rook chess piece (castle) It matches up with the cute cross bars that catch long hair, and the last bit of a bar of soap.


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You said the plumber cleaned the pipes after the kitchen was installed. So some of the crud from the cleaning probably built up around and in the smaller kitchen drain. After a fe washes, the built up crud broke free and into the larger drain where more water would be traveling and washed it out. the chemicals could have had an affect on it too. you're one ...


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One possibility is that by filling the tub basin, the height of the water provided extra pressure to move the clog. This can happen with slow draining: there's a constant stream of pressurized water flowing through the clog which starts to break it down. Plunging a sink is tricky because you have to have an airtight block on the overflow. It's probably ...


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Happens here fairly frequently. Stationary tub and washing machine share a drain line. Tub isn't used much. Side flow from the washing machine refills the tub trap with dirty water. Eventually it gets enough crud that the drain slows. Use the sink, and the first 3-4 inches of water drain slowly, then it flushes the crud out. In your case, a slow ...


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The "rough-in valve" is the mechanism and plumbing for the pop-up drain plug and also the bare valves that go below the handles https://www.build.com/moen-9000/s373576?uid=112916


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The first product is a 3 finish piece faucet and in this case Moen has turn it into a feature where you can just swap out the 3 finishing pieces without touching the underlying valve. You need to buy the valve separately and it is specific to that series of three piece faucet. The second link you have is a single piece faucet that has everything in it.


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Here's how I decided to plumb the traps. A straight 1ft section of 1 1/2" PVC was enough to get the AAV above the height of the strainer baskets. And I have enough room to get in there in the future. Had to get creative with making a double male union to join both female slip joints together where the santee meets the existing drain pipe, but it should ...


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I recently updated the toilet in my 1930 farm house. I have found a similar problem if I don’t hold the lever down until the tank is empty. It will flush a few times and start plugging up again. I have found running water in the sink and tub helps break up the clog , I am guessing that the old cast is catching some of the paper or waste it builds up and not ...


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It sounds like the clog is far enough down so that, given enough time to let the water drain out, there is enough room for one flush to enter the pipes fully before hitting the clog but not for any subsequent flushes. Like Nate suggested in the comments, your best bet is to snake it. Here is a how to: https://www.wikihow.com/Snake-a-Toilet


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In your 4th photo you have the sanitary tee oriented improperly ( horizontally instead of vertically ) but in your 6th photo you have it correct ( but you have an incorrect fitting on the top ). The sanitary tee will sit on the straight drain pipe going down through the bottom of the cabinet, it will accept the pipe coming from the trap. Depending on space ...


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