20
You have two big issues here.
First is that you have a serious risk of venting sewer gasses into your home. This is why drain vents open above the roof line or use one-way air admittance valves. This is likely to be unpleasant and possibly unhealthy.
Second is that a drain vent is typically too small and too moist to properly vent a bathroom fan. Your fan ...
13
Removing the old pipe
First you want to make sure the section of pipe that will remain, is properly supported (you don't want it falling). Then you'll want to install some temporary supports, to catch the portion of the pipe that you'll be removing.
Use a chain cutter, hammer and cold chisel, or grinder to break the pipe a few inches before the hub on the ...
12
No problem, as long as the vent meets the criteria listed below.
Not directly below a door, openable window, or other air intake opening (of this or any other building).
Not within 10 feet horizontally of the above mentioned openings, unless it's 3 feet above them.
Not less than 10 feet from the property line.
Not less than 10 feet above the ground.
Not ...
11
You are correct that floor drains do need to be monitored and occasionally the trap refilled with water.
So the first thing to check is that your floor drain actually has a trap. The way to do that is to slowly pour water in to the drain. You should notice the water level rise and stay there. If the water disappears quickly then it's likely you don't have a ...
11
The valve needs to be downstream of the trap, basically in the position an actual vent would be.
source
Also, be sure they're legal where you are. My local inspector forced me to run a new vent line and tie into the existing stack above the upstairs sink drain when I wanted to add a laundry drain.
10
You have an "S" trap because the drain exits through the floor and is probably unvented.
A "P" trap is for a drain in the wall that is teed for a vent stack.
The major disadvantage comes because "S" traps are usually used in locations where they are either not vented or poorly vented on the outflow side and so can siphon off the water in the trap, leading ...
10
This is a classic venting problem. If it has NEVER worked right, someone designed something wrong and it's going to be expensive to fix now because it will entail opening up the walls.
If it WAS working fine and just started acting up, something is blocking your vent pipe. A common cause is a bird nest or dead animal (i.e. rat or squirrel) that crawled ...
9
It sounds like the toilet, shower and sink share a vent. This is pretty normal; no plumber in his right mind would run separate vented stacks for each drain in the house. The drains are instead tied into one vent stack, and then stacks are combined as they flow into the main sanitary drain. However, the shower or sink may be upstream of the toilet, and are ...
9
It sounds to me like you don't have two unconnected drain lines, you have ONE drain line that starts at the fridge and ends at the sink.
If you stopper the sink end its just going to fill up the drain line and back up into the filter.
You need to install a tie in for the 3/8" line under the sink before the trap. Do not hook it in to the main drain after ...
9
All traps need venting in all cases. Without a vent, the water seal in the trap gets sucked out and sewer gases can enter the room. There's also all sorts of examples where someone thought they were providing venting, but done in such a way that clearing the water seal was still a possibility. Some of these methods even used to be accepted practice, such as ...
9
No, there should not ever be two traps on a single drain line.
The point of the trap is to create a water barrier which prevents sewer gasses from coming up the empty pipe and into the house.
When you have two traps on the same line, you end up creating a kind of vapor block in the line which prevents it from draining properly.
What do you do?
Get ...
8
You must have a vent above the vertical run for these drains. As drawn, water from your new work cannot draw air behind it from your existing work.
This is what vents do: draw air in behind draining water.
You could functionally combine all the new work drains as drawn into a single vertical vent, but remember that it needs to be able to draw air from ...
8
From the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO) "Uniform Codes Spotlight" archive from February 2018:
The configuration of the return bend using 45 degree and 90 degree elbows purposes to maintain a vertical angle (see Section 224.0, Vertical Pipe). This is to protect the return bend from accumulating waste and to prevent ...
7
Remove the trap from the tailpiece of the wash bowl and see if it needs cleaning.
Check your main vent stack that goes through the roof for any obstructions. Verify that a bird has not made a nest there.
If the sink was not installed by a plumber and has always had this problem, an air vent pipe may not have been installed or was installed incorrectly.
7
For cutting the pipe, go rent a chain pipe cutter (aka soil pipe cutter). It will make short work of the pipe and not be too messy. It will make a clean enough edge that a Fernco coupling (like you have a picture of) will work fine.
Obviously you will need to add some strapping to secure the horizontal run of iron pipe if you go this route because you don'...
7
You can purchase a toilet flange repair at any big box hardware store.
Remove the wax ring (buy a new one), remove the bolts, and mount this on top of the existing broken flange:
Then reattach the toilet as per normal, making sure not to over tighten.
Tip, seat the toilet firmly on the wax ring before you tighten the bolts, and use a STANDARD sized wax ...
7
It's not based on number of connections, but instead a computed value known as "drainage fixture units".
2012 International Residential Code
SECTION P3004 DETERMINING DRAINAGE FIXTURE UNITS
P3004.1 DWV system load. The load on DWV-system piping shall be computed in terms of drainage fixture unit (d.f.u.) values in accordance with Table P3004.1.
...
7
Take a straw. Suck up some liquid, and put your finger over the top. Notice how the liquid doesn't fall out the bottom of the straw. That's a vacuum lock, and it is one of the reasons why you need to vent your drains. Poorly vented drains don't drain well, and you'll get clicking and bubbling. Your toilet may fail to clear the payload. So regardless ...
7
The photos posted above were really helpful, since many people may not know what connectors and adapters are available -- as I didn't before replacing two vanities. Therefore, I thought I'd post photos of what I did and the components I used.
The first thing to do is come out of the wall with a wall tube (otherwise known as a quarter-bend wall tube). Cut ...
7
There is no reason you need the three sections vs one 180 degree return piece other than you have copied in one of the oldest and most used plumbing pictures on the internet.
I do my own plumbing and hire out plumbing for some jobs. I would only expect to see the 3-piece 180 turn (which is really 5 pieces) done by a hack - seriously. A good plumber ...
6
IANAP (I Am Not A Plumber) but I have recently replaced my old cast iron stack.
The relevant part of the International Plumbing Code looks like section 904. Specifically the following sections may apply to you.
904.1 Roof extension. All open vent pipes that extend through a roof shall be terminated at least [NUMBER] inches (mm) above the roof,
except ...
6
This has been an ongoing problem in the bathroom sink we use the most. When I was using conventional solutions (Drano and the like) to unclog it, I just assumed that there was a bunch of hair in the drain. This was a problem every couple of weeks, though, and I hated spending so much money on toxic drain cleaners. A couple of years ago, I happened across a ...
6
You're going to have to cut out the pipe, and replace it with PVC drain pipe. You can get rubber connectors (fernco) for the transition.
Here's a youtube how-to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFaJyIzyiYA
6
If its on a solid slab you're looking at a jackhammer and some new fittings. If your fittings are cast iron you'll need to be especially careful because its brittle and any concrete removing action around it could cause it to crack. Once exposed you'll be able to see your options depending on which direction the down elbow runs.
6
I would like to clarify a few things regarding this question and the provided answers.
As others have stated, you will definitely need to provide additional venting for the fixtures within this new addition, the existing vent will not suffice. Others have recommended providing individual vents for each fixture and then combining them in the ceiling to one ...
6
Every sink needs a sink vent. A plumbing fixture like a sink can not function properly without a sink vent. When a drain pipe drains it creates a negative pressure in the sink drain; the negative pressure will pull the water out of the p-trap of the sink that's draining and sewer gases can enter your home if a sink vent is not installed. There are several ...
6
I had the exact same problem under my bathroom sink. Here's a picture of how I resolved it. The first elbow off the sink is 1.5" because I couldn't find a 1.25" female-to-female elbow in my local Home Depot. I used a 1.25" sized compression washer in the larger elbow to get the smaller 1.25" elbow to fit snugly. Works great! You should be able to do the same ...
6
One thing you can do regarding the question if it an active part of your plumbing is to turn on your water sources one by one. While water is running down the respective drain put your ear to this unknown vent pipe top and listen for the sound of running water.
One way to make this process efficient is to have two people talking on cell phones. One person ...
5
Why is it rotten? Does it bode ill for the rest of the system?
I would replace as much cast as is easily doable with ABS. I would cut above and below where the K sink drain comes in and replace everything back to the sink with ABS.
Is there a particularly good sawzall blade for this?
Standard metal blade will do - I just cut a 4" myself no problem. (...
5
Seems to me that the issue is the pipe enters the wall so low that the J-trap won't reach (and would hit the shelf)? Looks like you are going to need to get two elbows, or a 180 and bring the wall fitting up higher to meet your J:
It will snake around a lot, but I don't think there's anything wrong with doing that.
BTW, since it's visible, I'd suggest ...
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