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4

Your original switch was a 50 cent cheapie. It had both screw terminals and backstabs. In your photo, the "B" backstab is internally connected to the yellow screw. So the installer is using the dual connections to splice together "B" and "C", as well as connect them to that leg of the switch. It's very common to bring power (...


2

Yellow is a "hot" color, as is red and orange. This switch does not have neutral. Your original switch was a 50 cent cheapie. It had both screw terminals and backstabs. In your photo, the orange backstab is internally connected to the yellow screw. So the installer is using the dual connections to splice together yellow and orange, as well as ...


2

Add a pigtail Since you have a screw terminal on your new switch, you'll need a piece of bare or green insulated* wire (about 6" long) and a wire nut. Pull those bare wires from the back of the box and use the wire nut (make sure it's the proper size - Red, I believe, is the proper size for three #14 or #12 wires) to attach your short piece of ground ...


4

IMPE, it's virtually guaranteed that the dimmer is the cause. I opted to get LED dimmers, because the LED units I got were dimmable. "Why not?" The nasty bits not mentioned: include does not go to full brightness, at least 1/2 second perceptible delay (at full brightness) with my dimmer/lights combination (.vs. normal instant with a normal switch) ...


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