32

You're looking at the problem upside down. You are thinking the smart bulbs are causing it. Actually, the Lutron Caseta dimmer is causing it. The smart bulbs are behaving normally, however their normal behavior is breaking the dimmer. The dimmer can't deal with four smart bulbs downline of it because (very typically) the dimmer doesn't have a neutral and ...


26

There is no need for tape inside a device box except perhaps as a wire colour marker (phase taping, etc). Outlets, switches, device boxes, cable, clamps, breakers - all of these devices have clear and specific installation methods that ensure they perform to the safety standards against which they are tested. Hacks like this do not count themselves among ...


20

Using the hole(s) in the back is called a "back stab", and, while technically code-legal, they're frowned upon because they can come loose and cause arcing and, if left alone long enough, fires. The side screws are actually the preferred method and are applicable for either 12 or 14 gauge wire. However, the way you've done it is missing on 2 points:...


17

LEDs on AC Power Don't Like to be Dimmed. Period. (LEDs on DC can actually be dimmed quite easily - just look at an older battery powered LED device (like handheld computer games from the 1980s) and you can see the LEDs dim when the battery is low.) But most AC powered LED lights - whether complete fixtures or Edison bulb incandescent replacements - have a ...


14

However, if I only turn off the lights breaker, and go into the switch panel with my voltmeter, I am still detecting 100V AC across the switch (with it off), even though the lights stay off when I turn the switch on. … Can anyone tell me what might be going on? Coupling between wires (inductance and capacitance in parallel wires). You say you have strange ...


14

The specifications of the LED lights you have say they will dim down to 10% without any flicker or buzzing. Some lights don't go down that far, and some will go even further. Based on the manual for your dimmer switch, there is an adjustment to change the low end of the dimming range: I would assume the switch would be factory set to work with most lights,...


12

In residential interior wiring, voltage irregularities generally are only a concern when over-voltages are seen and not under-voltages. Incidentally however, when there is an under-voltage, there is usually an over-voltage on the opposite phase somewhere else to balance it out. 113V is fine. Light bulbs, except for the LEDs, are pure resistive loads and ...


12

If you are going to do it you go 3-4 times around the outlet so it covers the metal and doesn't slip off. Also do not use the cheapo stuff that comes in at $2 for 5 rolls. This shouldn't be a common thing. I do it only when using smaller metal boxes and the side screws are very close to the edge or touching to prevent arcing. If you are leaving too ...


10

It's a floating neutral. But it's only the one circuit. Find, re-strip, re-splice, and tighten down all of that circuit's neutral connections. If it goes directly through an outlet, pigtail it.


10

Yes, I see several problems. Wire just stuck under a screw, and not using a proper shepherd's hook with a more than 180 degree bend (i.e. squeezing it together after forming it. Watch a Youtube video on how to put a wire on a screw. Insulation excessively stripped, leaving bare bits of wire sticking out beyond the back surface of the switch. Not OK. ...


9

Add some ground pigtails Take the existing bundle of bare (ground) wires, and add a couple pigtails of bare or green wire to the bundle, making sure the bundle is joined properly using a wirenut or push-in connector instead of just being twisted together. The other ends of the pigtails simply land on the green ground screws of the new dimmers.


9

You have a "single-pole" arrangement, i.e. one switch controlling the load (the light). You simply need to turn off the circuit breaker controlling this circuit, remove the two wires from your existing dimmer switch and place them on the two wire terminals on the new dimmer switch (the terminals that are NOT green). It does not matter which wire goes to ...


9

"Never" is a bit strong. This is not a plain "screw terminal" where that would be true. This is a "screw and clamp" and appears to be designed to correctly hold 2 wires, so you are good. That extra bit of brass between the screw-head and the back plate is what makes the difference, along with the two grooves to hold wires in ...


8

From the link you posted: The dimmer is rated for up to 210W of halogens with or without transformer. So if you have 6x 20W 12V halogen bulbs, total 120W, it's okay. You should check the power on the bulbs to make sure they're not 50W halogen bulbs, in which case it would exceed the rated power of the dimmer, although 12V 50W are pretty rare. When your ...


7

I'm in same boat. When I redid the house I'm in, I installed as much LED lighting as I could and the rest is halogen. What I've learned is, dimming range is based completely on the driver in the LED bulb. And most LED bulbs will only dim to about 20-30% of there maximum. I'm sure you know how dimmers work, but for those that don't it is basically a ...


7

Simply put, you have the wrong type of switch for the bulbs you have installed. Most (not in every scenerio) LED bulbs require you to install an ELV type dimmer. What you have installed is a standard incandescent dimmer. There are three main types of dimming switches. Incandescent, CFL (for incandescents, fluorescents, and SOME LED bulbs), and ELV (for ...


7

Everything you are saying depends on where the electrician checked the voltages. Dimmers will affect the voltages on the load side. So did the electrician check for voltage drop across the dimmers themselves? If there is a drop it would be there. The other thing that causes abnormal voltage drop are joints not making a solid electrical connection. So look ...


7

We gotta do something about that mess There's no way to avoid the fact that this many wires will be a huge mess in this box. It's already a huge mess and efforts were made to keep it neat. Your #1 problem is just what you're running into - wires are not well-marked. You've done yourself a huge favor by identifying everything before you tore it all ...


7

Rundown in layman's terms: Light switch to outlet. You will see a lot of these in older homes. By code for a long time in a lot of areas you had to be able to turn on a light from a switch accessible when entering a room. Easiest and most cost-effective way to do this is put switch to outlet. I had six rooms in my house like this. Dimmer to outlet. For sure ...


6

Light dimmers are designed to drive loads that are largely resistive in nature like light bulbs. They are generally not compatible with loads that are inductive. Most, if not all, AC motors are inductive type loads. That said, whether a dimmer switch will work safely with your fan or not depends entirely upon the type of motor on the fan. There are some ...


6

No, you should not have to replace both of the existing switches on each circuit. You won't be able to dim from both ends, of course. You just need a "3-Way LED Dimmer" and follow the appropriate wiring. Replace one of the switches (on each set of lights that have two switches) with the dimmer - the other switch will turn them on or off, at wherever the ...


6

Why would you replace a single pole dimmer with a 3-way switch?? I pity the next person who tries to figure out what the heck is going on with this. Correct replacement would have been - leave the wires that are connected to each other connected to each other. Remove dimmer with one in, one out - replace with switch with one in, one out, connecting wall ...


6

This depends on the manufacturer's statements. Typically switch devices are rated for their expected normal device load. Wiring heat loss, etc. should be negligible enough to ignore. Here's what one manufacturer said on their website: Electronic low-voltage transformers also dissipate some heat. These inefficiencies are small enough to be accounted for ...


6

Personally I always go up a size in dimmer if I am that close to the limit. If it is ganged with other dimmers then derating forces you to. Will it work, absolutely. Will it fail sooner at that high of a load, most likely. Will it get very hot, definitely. Will it be dangerous, no, not really.


6

The LED is the most dimming-friendly light source ever made. The problem is that most people are using screw-in "incandescent replacement" LED modules, with obsolete dimming schemes** intended for incandescent lights (which just don't have the refinement to perform well in the low range). This is the ugliest hack in electrical design, and produces ugly-...


6

Short answer, most dimmers do get warm when in use. If the dimmer does not have a mechanical method of turning completely off. Then there is a good chance that you are still getting some electrical flow through the switch and that would mean the dimmer could stay warm. In other words what @Harper said. The biggest question I would have would be if it was ...


6

OK, here goes: What you have now The power from the panel seems to come in in the middle of the bottom of the box. That black wire is always hot, and is connected to all of your switches via the orange nut you labeled e, which connects wires d, g, i. i connects to j via switch 3, and j (which is the same as m) connects to the always-hot (k) via switch #4. ...


6

Switch switching outlets. That's normal enough. Often the outlet(s) switched are far from the switch, because that is where the installer thought you would want to put the light. The installer was wrong. They always are. Because of that some of them switch more than one receptacle. Split receptacles. That is normal. That's what the "tab" between ...


6

Based on the instructions and Single Pole installation (i.e., one switch rather than 2 switches), this should be quite simple: Line - Hot This is one of your black wires. Hard to tell from the old dimmer *and it may not have made any difference on the old dimmer which wire was hot and which wire was switched hot. It might not matter on the dimmer, but you ...


6

Cost, mostly Whether your grounding conductors are bare, insulated, or not even a wire to begin with depends on what wiring method you are working with. NM, because it's made in large quantities, uses a bare grounding wire to save cost (likewise with UF and most SE cables, as those pennies add up at industrial scales). On the other hand, if your house is ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible