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21

When the boards having the heads are being discarded, a simple way to remove them is to cut through the screws at the joint between the board. You can use a reciprocating saw (often called by a brandname, Sawzall) or a multitool In either case, you need to use a blade intended for cutting metal. Some blades are combination blades that work in wood or ...


12

It has to do more with the quality of the the 2x6s vs the 4x6. A 4x6 x 12 board would have to be clear all the way through, with no cracks or knots. Most softwood logs won't produce this board, and if it cracks, it is likely to break more easily vs the 2x6. On the other hand, drilling a bunch of holes in a 2x6 does it no favors, though because the two ...


8

@Bib is absolutely correct in the answer above, but in the grand tradition of skinning a cat multiple ways, here's an alternate approach. I think this would be faster than an oscillating tool and easier than a sawzall. (Though both are great tools to have -- don't let me discourage you there.) Given that you're not trying to save the deck boards, I'd use a ...


7

Boards that are laminated in some fashion get an overall durability increase (not necessarily net strength increase) because they no longer suffer from a single grain dimension through the thickness. Primarily, in the case you describe a split or warp will not impact the whole board, only half of it. A properly laminated beam (like VersaLam or Glulam) does ...


7

The Scout Pioneering website contains information on how to build several bridges. I am guessing that most of these are more complicated than what you had in mind, so if you want something simpler, you can attempt flat span bridge using 2x12's for a span between 14 and 18 feet. On the latter page the author goes on to say that "[i]f you are thinking of ...


6

The jury is still out on these types of products. I was at a contractors day at my local Lowes and the rep from one of the manufactures of the epoxy style coverings was there demonstrating the product. The end result was a smooth, not sandy, but mottled non skid finish. the dried samples on display revealed about an 1/8" coating on the wood. I did spend a ...


6

Simple really assuming you have the proper tools. Cut your 4x4's to 18 inch length Build a frame Attach to the 4x4 posts Cut wood to fit the surface of the frame Add lateral support to the 4x4 posts To join 2 benches at a corner, figure out your corner angle and modify the plans to match. Wooden Bench Plans Website


6

The temperature range is important because it dictates the drying time and should be followed pretty close. The dryness factor is critical. Wood absorbs water. When you set out to protect your deck you want the deck to absorb the sealer. If the deck is already wet, then the sealer won't sink into the wood and you've wasted your money. The deck must be dry so ...


5

Use face mount joist hangers and set them so that the tops of the joists are all level. You could try to return the joists and demand a batch that are the same size. Or shim them, which is less than ideal. As stated in comments, joists can vary in size based on moisture content. Not only that, but they'll expand and contract a bit with moisture changes in ...


5

If your just replacing a few boards and you can see the screws clearly, I have had pretty good luck using a coring bit. They can be a little hard to find without pilot bit, but they work very well. You can also find a hole saw without a pilot and it would work well. You simply put the hole around the screw, the large plank comes off, and your left with a ...


5

I've replace a few on decks and never had to remove all the planks because there was enough room underneath to get to the joist hangers. You should remove the screws from the planks going into a joist you want to replace. Then support the joist and remove the hanger from one end and the screws from the other hanger into the joist. Then lower and remove the ...


4

When the plank is to be replaced you can cut the plank either side of the joist (I drilled a hole to start then a power jigsaw to cut). Then split the small remaining bit of plank along its grain with an old chisel (not a good one, please!) adjacent to the screw. That will leave a rusty screw protruding out of the joist. I have always found that if you ...


4

Decks have been built with screws for the last 30 years where I live. Nails are unheard of for the reason you mentioned. Your local hardware store will have a selection of epoxy-coated or galvanized screws in various colors that will serve you well. 2-1/2" is typical for 5/4 decking, and 3" for 2-by decking. You can use a standard drill to drive deck screws....


4

In my area, they often build homes that have an optional deck, but the deck is not built at the same time as the home. In these cases, the home builders simply build a small section of railing, and attach it directly in front of the door. In your case, you will not be able to open the doors (since the railing will prevent it). In the case of sliding doors, ...


4

Personally, I'd power wash it and apply a thick deck restoring product since you plan to replace in a few years. This is an example of such a product, but I'm not endorsing any product or seller. This one is nice because it is tintable.


3

The 45 degree decking is the primary sub-floor. It's a technique that was widely used in the past, but has subsequently been replaced with simply dropping sheets of plywood down. In answer to your questions: 1) You can glue and screw to the sub-floor. 2) In this case, it doesn't matter. The sub-floor is carrying the load diagonally. However, if there ...


3

It depends on your local building codes, but most places in the US, they will insist on the joist hangers. Joist hangers are far stronger and safer. They are not that much more trouble, in fact they may be easier to work with. You can put them in half way, set the jousts in, then finish attaching them.


3

First, a disclaimer: Make sure the wood you are going to use will stand up in the environment you're placing them in. You may be better off using these with the T&G on an indoor project. Weather outside will quickly weather non-pressure treated wood, and decks typically require thicker boards than you'd have inside since they don't have a sub-floor. For ...


3

Where I live old floor boards are like gold bricks. I had to replace a few boards in a house built in the 1920's and to get boards that matched was like $20 / linear meter. And that was just for ratty old baltic pine, with nail holes and dents and stains. Consider selling the boards and buying new hardwood decking with the proceeds.


3

In architecture we use laminated timber in order to reach long distances. It would be impossible otherwise. Here is just to reduce weak spots. By the way, that is not a real laminated timber but just a pair of beam. laminated beam are mated differently: ___________ ____________ ___________ _____ ___________ ___________ ______ ___________ ____________ ...


3

Unless height is an issue, why limit yourself to a 6" deep timber? It's the height that's going to give the beam its rigidity. Why not look at an 8" or 9" deep floor joists? We use 9" x 2" and even 9" x 3" floor joists all the time. Although, the last bridge we made (over a stream to a rough old fishing pond so aesthetics wasn't an issue) we used 'open ...


3

What are the common methods for this type of job? The one you described, plus:


3

There is also this type of saw that may work ok for this job: This type has a lot more control than a larger reciprocating saw because the base rests on the surface of the decking board. These do have disadvantages in that when cutting thicker materials the blade can wander from straight down and create a cut that is not square with the surface. This can be ...


3

Either method is fine so it becomes a matter of taste and skill. The first method is the overhang bullnose style, which is the most common. I believe you are using the Trex style grooved decking that utilizes the invisible clips. The grooved boards are definitely not what you want to use for the bullnose or any outside edge, as the grooves will show. You ...


3

Left the barbecue on too long? Of course the middle deck boards need to go, but you have the option of splicing the joist. What you need is a 6 foot piece of the same material, screws and some good construction glue - the kind that comes in a caulking tube, not a squeeze bottle. PL-400 is good stuff. Cut the new board into 2 x 3 foot lengths, apply glue ...


3

You can do that, but some screws are very hard and you'll have a slow, noisy time of it. You'd want a high quality metal-cutting blade. Getting a gap between the decking and joists makes it much easier, too. If you aren't trying to salvage the decking, just pry the boards off the joists and then bend the screws that remain back and forth a few times. They'...


3

The boards will flex something awful, which makes for an unpleasant walking experience. Tying them together with an unsupported stringer in the middle will make things quite a bit less wobbly. If the bridge is short then an X-shaped brace between the beams will give you much better support with the same look. I personally would opt for the 1x4 if all other ...


3

I am not a structural engineer but i have built decks so take my opinion for what it is worth. Your post spacing looks good, But we do not know what size beams you are using and that matters in order to know if they are adequate. I would move your first beam in towards the house 2' so it is 8' from the wall. That way each joist run is 8' 2x6 for joist ...


3

The deck screws are most assuredly made of steel which has iron in it. It should be very easy to find the screw locations using a magnet. I have used these inexpensive type of magnetic nail/screw locators on walls and ceilings. I suspect they would work well on your deck as well. (Picture Source: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-47-400-Magnetic-Stud-Finder/...


3

I do not know how big they are but one idea is to use a hammer drill and a masonry bit to drill 4 holes in a square pattern about 6 to 8 inches deep, not too close to the sides (three holes would work for a smaller footer diameter). Place a piece of rebar long enough to make a 6 to 8 inch addition into each hole and wire them so they do not move around. ...


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