New answers tagged

2

The Code requires a stair to be designed to 40 psf. (See ICC Table R301.1) The net dimension of a stringer after the riser and tread have been removed (depending on the exact rise and run) is about 5” - 5 1/2”. This is about the size of a 2x6 and a 2x6 can span about 13’ and support about 45 psf. Therefore, you need a minimum of 3 stringers (about 12” on ...


4

It is not possible to use a solid stringer mid-tread, so where the code addresses increased span allowance for use of solid stringers, there is a presumption that the middle stringers (if any) are cut. Your 48" width will need two cut stringers, because anything exceeding 36" width need max stringer spacing of 18"OC. There is no support or ...


2

I’ll try to help. There are several issues. First, I don’t think the posts have to extend two stories. I think the posts could extend from a foundation support up to the deck structural system. Second, posts could extend from the deck structural system up to the roof overhang if necessary for the guardrail support. (The posts could align with the first floor ...


0

Regardless of the wood species boards warp for several reasons. Primarily it's when a difference in moisture loss (or gain) occurs at different areas of the lumber. Grain direction also effects movement. If your boards have been out of the elements for 8 years and have remained straight then they should remain so. I would be more concerned about the boards ...


8

That's a "breadboard end", and it's simply a design element. There is no requirement for it that I'm aware of. If you do an internet search for deck images, you'll see a wide variety of decks with and without this type of breadboard edging, and the ones with it will have it in varying widths. It's purely aesthetic. The most important thing is to ...


1

I like the gaps, my deck is treated pine but I think air circulation in the 4 to 8 mm gaps helps to slow rot ( now 25 years old with a few replacements). I have holly ,oak, and pine to supply crap. I blow every couple weeks and about once a year I clear cracks with a large blade.


4

I'd consider how much rain it gets before thinking of filling the gaps. You could be swapping one problem for another if the deck doesn't slope sufficiently away from the house to properly drain. My first plan would be A leaf blower (or even just a yard brush) for the dry stuff, followed by A pressure washer for what's left. A bit of decking cleaner in the ...


Top 50 recent answers are included