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I’d use #3 rebar because it can be bent by hand...no special bending tools or equipment is required using #3 rebar. I’d install 4 - #3 rebar vertically and 1 - #3 rebar tie at 8” on center horizontally to keep your concrete base from cracking and failing. Also, remember to keep all rebar a minimum of 2” from the edge of your form and 3” from the bottom. (...


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You'll want to use vegetable shortening, not lard. It will be a lot cheaper unless you have local market conditions that create a glut of pig's fat. Where I come from, you have to go to an artisan grocery to even get lard. The cheapest hydrogenated vegetable shortening is fine for this, but don't eat it because there are health issues with it. For ...


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Whether your concrete base will survive is irrelevant, because your beam will fail. See: https://www.amesweb.info/StructuralAnalysisBeams/Stresses_Steel_Hollow_Structural_Sections.aspx Input: Output: Notice the highlighted field of the output. That's the stress you'll be putting on the connection with the ground, (assuming it's rigid). The yield ...


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The lard will work fine. The laminated wood would give you smoother sides and bottom.


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You need to clean up that area and fill it up with gravel. Compact it the best you can shoving the gravel down and to the back. When you're a few inches from the hole pour in cement. Pour in enough so it's a few inches above the hole and then slope it down away from the hole to deflect water from there. Fixing the gutter problem, maybe adding another ...


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I'd be fixing the original problem, which was that the pipes were not properly let into the slab. It wouldn't be a terribly difficult chore to remove more concrete with a rotary hammer, for example, and you can repair the plumbing with pex or self-locking fittings (like Sharkbite). Doing what you proposed is putting a larger bandage in place of a small one....


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Why wouldn't you just use 6x6 treated #2 SYP posts? You must have a reason why you felt that getting a 4x6 was more important. Otherwise 4x6 treated is available as curb blocking at lumber yards. Typically it's #2 if I remember correctly.


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Not using graded lumber can get you in trouble. Or what I mean is using a lower grade than allowed for a residence. If you ever have an earthquake this could be an area that the insurance company says they won’t cover your loss. And you want to use material that is below grade 2 and specifically listed as not for structural. I would not have this prior to ...


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I would be heeding the warning. Did you try a real lumber yard or just your home store for the replacement lumber? At least replace the wood with some rated for structural use.


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If you're building something that is hard to tip over, it needs to be wide and heavy. Your poles unfortunately have a huge lever arm compared to the base. The weight of your base multiplied by its radius needs to be more than the tension in the sail cloth multiplied by the height of the pole. If you have a 6' pole and a 16" wide base, the leverage works ...


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It will be very hard to give guidance as to if a particular size of base will be adequate for your application. Here are some of the variables to consider: Length of the metal pipe that holds the sail cloth. The longer (and presumed higher) this pole the more lateral leverage it can apply to the base. Span of the sail cloth overhead. The longer span you ...


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Your plan to use an angle grinder is the way to go. The masonry disks for your grinder will cut the metal reenforcement wire or rebar. The metal will reduce the blade or disk life so get more than you think you need you can return unused ones. Cutting concrete is really messy when done dry, make sure to have a quality dust mask and you may want to seal off ...


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I don't like using an angle grinder for deep cuts. Pinch the cutting wheel, and the wheel shatters. If you go this route, face shield, dust mask, gloves and long sleeves. Most concrete saws I've seen run wet. If you do this, then use a GFCI circuit for your tools (and test the GFCI...) Wet means a bigger local mess, but you don't have concrete dust ...


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A angle grinder with a concrete blade will be pretty awkward. I would use a circular saw with the concrete blade. It will cut the metal reinforcement wires too. You'll still have a lip that the circular saw can't get to so then use the angle grinder with the concrete blade or just cold chisel and hammer it out.


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I am kind of partial to J. Raefield and J Stewarts methods. Very simple and straight forward. I too think 12" is too much although some deck standards for posts are 12". I plan on using 8" on the three posts I have to dig in my deck rebuild. Hoping the code officer lets me go with 8" vs 12"!? Also I plan on using 8" Sonotubes and filling it to the top of a ...


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I never have used 12 inch diameter holes for fence posts, more like 6 to 8 inches diameter and 24 inches deep for a 6 ft fence. One bag of concrete per post.


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Well, I always use fast setting fence post concrete and you put 2" of gravel on the bottom of the hole, then fill the hole 1/3 of the way up with water, dump one bag of fence post concrete and level the post, then hold it that way for 2 minutes and let dry overnight. The reason fence post concrete is different is that it is packaged to be one bag per post ...


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If your main goal is privacy, take advantage of the fact that you are in Florida. You can grow things. Grow a hedge. source: https://www.ehow.com/info_7984475_plants-hedges-southwest-florida.html Bob Vila gives 10 options for Florida hedge plants here. https://www.bobvila.com/slideshow/the-best-10-plants-to-grow-for-backyard-privacy-50057 Hedges will ...


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Do a little trench in the wall / ceiling and bury a proper plastic conduit, nexy tou'll just have to 'pull' new wire


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Insulated slabs usually have vapor barrier underneath. Since you did a test and found no moisture, there should be no problem installing vinyl flooring on it.


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To strictly answer your question : Add the most amount of water per the manufacturer instructions and no more. The better answer is that you don't want to rely on water to control your workability. I hope you are planning to do this a few times, because you will have some trial and error. Your mortar will want to shrink, so it might crack. Excessive water ...


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Does the fence need to be solid for privacy? If not, consider a chain-link fence. You set the poles, unroll the fencing along and attach it to the poles with wire clips, then if you want to avoid having it sag, you run a pipe or just a thick wire along the top through eyes on the tops of the poles. When you get to the end, you rent a come-along fence puller ...


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Here are some thoughts, not exactly addressing what you ask, but which may help you succeed. Ecnerwal's point that you want concrete, not mortar, is a good one. Read the concrete bag. I think it will recommend a minimum 3" thickness, which it does not look like you have. Maybe you can make it work anyway, but understand it's not a recommended practice to ...


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Concrete is strongest when the mix is as dry as possible, and weaker when the mix is wetter. A highly liquid mix is therefore almost always a bad idea. This is well understood/documented/tested in the industry, tends to be poorly understood by homeowners and some of the less educated pros. Likewise, the importance of plenty of water for the curing process ...


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It is called "mastic". It provides a flexible buffer space between the pool and the deck while sealing that gap. It does wear out over time and need to be replaced. Pool mastic generally refers to the expansion seal located several inches from your in ground pool’s edge. This expansion seal is filled with mastic, a waterproof, putty-like adhesive used as a ...


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It sounds like a portland + sand mix (or bagged mortar mix) to mortar the tiles first might work. Fill the remaining form with concrete before the mortar sets so they can bond. A bit of vibration should help to fill in gaps. Not sure how well this would hold up to foot traffic over time.


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