9

Painting the walls will help, but if your workshop is anything like mine, you're going to cover a large percentage of the wall area with workbenches, peg boards, machines, shelves, etc. And all the paint in the world won't help if you don't have adequate light sources in the first place. So spend money first on lighting, and then on paint if you have funds ...


4

without a lip you'd want to use concrete adhesive on each row. check your local code regulations. Typically a wall of a certain height has to be run through an engineer first. In my area I believe the height was 3'. Anything higher I'd have to hire an engineer. In our case, we had a large amount of earth to retain, but decided it was best to use a tiered ...


4

White paint is all you really need. You can also add some plywood to a wall as a pseudo-pegboard but that is your call.


4

Suitablilty of fasteners for supporting bracketry in concrete depends mostly on the weight. light duty 0-10lbs: Screws with concrete threads, no anchors needed (EG Tapcon and Spax) medium duty: 10-50lbs: anchors of plastic or lead, heavy duty: 50+ : sleeve and wedge anchors There are overlaps between light and medium duty , based on screw size and ...


4

If you build the pad with concrete you may want to consider not making it out of a solid block of concrete. Instead form it up to create sides and a couple of steps as necessary. But then fill a large portion of the inner area with sand so that the top of the landing is 4 to 6 inches thick. A little re-bar in the sides and folded over to embed in the top can ...


4

Just get replacement windows instead of new construction and use tapcons to fasten the windows through the sides. Caulk outside good to keep out water. Foundation should also be graded away from the window to keep out water.


4

Concrete and plaster are porous materials; water can penetrate them, and in fact cinder block is more or less a sponge for water. In addition, the mortar used to build the wall will have only just cured completely after three weeks, and while it's curing it will actively accept water. To avoid this dampness, you should apply a sealant. There are sealants ...


4

They make them. Not concrete blocks per se but other precast concrete units. You'll need to find out if you're local suppliers carry them or you have a precast stone manufacturer near you. The family of products you're talking about, which includes not only the half round but other shapes, are called concrete coping stones. That should help you ask around ...


4

If you'd like to minimize use of concrete, don't use any. I have 4 sheds that have been sitting for 14 years on sections of pressure treated wood, set on top of the ground - and a 5th that's on 4 pressure treated wood posts set into the ground. No concrete at all. Wooden floors (not pressure treated - only the ground-contact wood is PT.) Nice and dry.


4

Does the fence need to be solid for privacy? If not, consider a chain-link fence. You set the poles, unroll the fencing along and attach it to the poles with wire clips, then if you want to avoid having it sag, you run a pipe or just a thick wire along the top through eyes on the tops of the poles. When you get to the end, you rent a come-along fence puller ...


3

In the installation instructions for water heaters that I could find, they all say that this "parking block" is required. Installation, Operation, AND service Manual for Residential Storage Type Gas Water Heaters THIS WATER HEATER MUST BE LOCATED OR PROTECTED TO AVOID PHYSICAL DAMAGE BY VEHICLES OR FLOODING. Installation Instructions and Use &...


3

Yes that is the way to do it without a cutoff blade, it is old school. But you must chisel in deep enough, completely around the block that is accessible, before you strike with hard blows to break it on the score line you made. I have done this with as little as an 1/8" deep score, although deeper is better for a more sure result. Go around the block in ...


3

There are concrete block anchors that can hold substantial loads, but only if located within a specific area of solid grouted cells. Anchors into hollow cells cannot hold much weight. Assuming you have a mix of hollow and solid cells, you can't reliably anchor each tread where it occurs, but you could anchor a continuous stringer plate to the wall, anchored ...


3

Is there a good way to find out, and possibly drain this water out? A drill with a concrete bit should do the trick. Will a dehumidifier work in this situation? A basement in most climates (any place with somewhat humid summers) should likely have a dehumidifier regardless. So it definitely won't hurt.


3

The blocks you linked to are more for decorative purposes; one or two courses around flowerbeds or trees. What you're going to need for 3'-4' of retaining wall is something like this: This is engineered block from http://www.anchorwall.com (I'm not affiliated; it was the first thing that came up when I Googled "Retaining wall blocks"). As you can see, they (...


3

Brick Walls are usually load bearing or non-load bearing. Generally you can identify them by their width. While not "best practice", in some cases a connecting non-load bearing wall may act as a lateral brace to a long load bearing wall. This may be an issue in an earth-quake prone area where bracing walls are very important. Check with your local building ...


3

Is the wall dry? is the paint in good condition? If it is dry you could use joint compound. If the paint is pealing it would need to be scraped first. I like using mortar on block walls because it holds up to moisture better than joint compound but have not used on painted block. Some don't like mortar because the sand is very rough even after painting.


3

When concrete is mixed it has air trapped in the mix. When pouring walls we use vibrators to get the air out. With smaller pours hitting the forms with a hammer helps.


2

If you follow the advice of others and use a wire brush to knock off the paint, be aware that the dust particles from lead paint are the main hazard. There are some precautions on NY's DoH page that I'd recommend, including disposable coveralls, respirator, and goggles in addition to completely sealing the area from the rest of the home (remember the air ...


2

Paint certainly helps reflect light into a room better than concrete, but as to the type to use, best to ask the paint department at your hardware store. I wanted to add this: One important consideration in work areas is not just the type and brightness of lighting, but placement. A superb light source is just about worthless when it's behind you, casting ...


2

This may not be worth doing, but a white ceiling will reflect your lighting down where you want it instead of letting it get absorbed by the brown wood up in the joist bays. It also gives you good non-directional lighting (especially if the walls are also white) However, sheetrocking the ceiling in the basement is not an extreme that most people want to go ...


2

You may be able to secure the boxes with something like these supports This image shows two supports that need to be separated in the middle. The support is grasped by one of the short, perpendicular legs. The longer end of the long leg is slid on an angle into the cavity vertically between the box and the vertical edge of the opening. Then the bottom end ...


2

Another term for these is breeze block in the UK or besser block in Australia. As the are larger than bricks a wall can be built more quickly than with bricks. They are usually used for the interior skin of a cavity wall and any interior load bearing walls.


2

Brick laying is an art form. It takes a lot of time to get the technique down. Professional masons make the process look much easier than it really is. One thing that can help is to buy a pre-mixed mortar instead of trying to make your own. It should have a better consistency than what you are using. There are also many different kinds of mortars. A type M ...


2

This is about load bearing and claims. The pressure associated with 2 ft of dirt is probably well within the load bearing specification of the blocks in question. 3 feet may not cause any issue, but you cannot hold the manufacturer liable if it collapses and/or if someone gets hurt. If you exceed the manufacturers specifications an inspector might have a ...


2

When it comes to cutting block, you don't need to cut it (but cutting a score can be helpful). Using a rock hammer (and perhaps a chisel) to break the rock is the way it's done. The method for shaping rocks is kind of simple, but a video is a better way to describe it... so here's a few youtube videos about shaping rocks. Flagstone (good info) Rock hammer ...


2

I think the better approach is to build a thicker gravel base, and use less concrete for the pad. Backfill with gravel, in layers, compacting between each 4"-6" layer. I'm not sure you're aware of how much concrete you'll need for your proposed 12" thick pad. See this: http://www.calculator.net/concrete-calculator.html. Your 4'x4'x12" pad will use 27 bags ...


2

That's rather an overkill approach, to say the least. Expensive and not getting you much benefit for the expense. Huge solid blocks like that are good for a punch press or artillery piece, they don't benefit an air conditioner at all. If "not moving" is a prime concern, it's likely too shallow to be below frost line if your profile location of Ohio is ...


2

This is a very good mitigating method for a leaning basement wall. The lean isn't really an issue. It is the buckling that is costly. As long as these prevent buckling they are doing their job. Some notes: whether these are 4', 6', 8' or 20' apart is surely determined by an engineer at the site or a company using best practice for foundation type and ...


2

I don't think it's safe to assume the firing strips (what you are calling studs) were installed in such a way to properly hang a TV. Unless you know for certain otherwise, you shouldn't mount the TV to the firing strips. I think you have three options. Find a fastener that can go all the way through your bracket, stud and drywall, and anchor in to the ...


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