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23

That bottom piece should unscrew by turning it counter clockwise. They usually come with a tool to unscrew it. You can use a steel washer and a pair of pliers or a large screwdriver. You don't want to be laying under it when you unscrew it.... don't ask how I know.


22

Apparently it is called a bottle trap. To clean it in-place Use a large coin to unscrew this part: Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_sUB9PlTw8 To remove it: Unscrew this part to remove the connection to the drain: Then unscrew the entire assembly:


18

That is a drum trap. [Evidently also called a bottle trap in some parts of the world, per comments] They are rather old school, and out of favor in code now. I'm more used to finding them embedded in a floor with the clean-out on top (for a tub application) but yours does seem to have the cleanout down. Fair warning - they seem to be above average at "...


7

How to unclog it !!! WARNING !!! Put on gloves, and full face protection gear! NaOH can cause severe burns or even permanently blind you. You wouldn't want even a droplet on your eyes, since (unlike your skin) they have no protection at all. (Before trying my method below, give a try to the other suggestion by @Jaroslav Voller. Try not to pierce the pipe ...


6

I just faced the same problem recently - a NaOH plug. I solved it using citric acid. Instead of using straws, I used a piece of hard wire and I was hitting the hard NaOH clog mechanically. After each stroke, a reaction on NaOH and citric acid was apparent (boiling like effect, bubbles coming out of the sink). After a couple of minutes, the clog had ...


5

It it is a new build, then removing the trap under the sink will not be an issue. Just loosen the nuts, remove the trap (have a pan underneath) and then clean the trap. This is most likely the source of the slow draining. If the trap looks clean, then get a hand auger (snake) to clean the drain line. It is best to do this with the trap out. Hand augers ...


4

Acid. Vinegar, Citric (aka sour salt), CLR, Barkeepers friend, phosphoric, etc. Keep applying (and re-applying) it, and see if perhaps you can get dry citric acid or barkeepers friend mixed to a "paste" or "slurry" form that might cling to the problem area - or fill the trap with acid and use sections of rope or rags (secured against going down the drain) to ...


4

In general, a one-time slip-up dumping grease down the sink won't cause any clogs. Grease creates clogs over time, by building up layer upon layer inside the pipe until water cannot pass through (easily) anymore. This is most usually a problem with greases that are solid at room temperature but liquid at cooking temperature (or under hot water). When hot, ...


4

There are no clear cut rules on how an auger should work. They're designed to "screw" into the clog and either break it up so it flows down the drain or catch the clog so you can pull it out with the auger. Keep trying to remove bits of the litter like you said you have done. Chemical stuff probably won't work since the litter is compressed paper and has ...


4

Given all of the steps you have already done I would go the cheapest and most effective route. Get a couple gallons of muriatic acid (big box). Pour about a 1/5th of the container down the tank drain - directly. Let it sit 3-4 hours. Flush and repeat as many times as you can. You need ventilation in the room, you will not be able to use the room at ...


4

I have found (over many years and snaking hundreds of drains) that the ability to get past a bend in the line is directly related to your technique (read, experience) and the tool you are using. Cheap cables are prone to flex too much and are difficult to get around some bends, especially if you've kinked it (although I keep a few cheap ones, I call them &...


3

I just cleared an extremely difficult NaOH blockage in my bathroom sink. Gallons of water went in, and I spent 20 minutes working at it with the straw. While I could see there was a reaction between the NaOH and the toilet descaler I was using it wasn't enough. Then I had an idea that worked in 60 seconds! I got the steam generator I use for general ...


3

The first (and most likely) place it's stuck is at the top bend inside the toilet. That's usually a rather tight turn. The second place is at the bottom, either above or below the floor flange. The bend going into the house drain stack is usually fairly gentle but there are ridges that can catch larger objects. In short, there is no simple way to answer "...


3

The plumber you had out kind of left you hanging. He should have put a camera down there to give you more details on what is going on. Basically your septic tank is backing up or you have an issue with the main line. It could be slight collapsed or pinched or have roots growing in it or whatever. So your first step is to have someone come out with ...


3

If the soap doesn't work, I'd go with a drain zip before going to a snake. There are a lot of brands, burt basically a drain zip is a three dollar, 2.5 foot (3/4 meter) long flat, bendy piece of plastic, with plastic barbs along the sides. It's great for getting hairballs out of the shower drain, and should bend its way quite nicely through the toilet to the ...


3

You basically have three main options for a cleanout: Roof. Most home during that era, especially with cast iron have a full clean out on the roof vent. Main stack on lowest level. This would be basements in some homes but guessing you don't have one. Without a basement these can be on the first level or crawl space, usually first level. If there is a ...


3

I always let mine dry and then take it out back and put the torch to it. It does leave some residue, which is very easily and quickly removed with a wire brush.


3

There's a good chance the clog is in the trap right under the sink. Someone should try to remove it and clean it out. If it's not the trap, get a cheap drain snake and run it down the drain with the trap off. I'm not sure any of the drain cleaners would work on spackle. Good luck.


2

You have a 3-year old (deep sigh) - odds are pretty good it's not a 2-week old subscription card (ought to be pretty much mush by now) but some other object likely flushed more recently. My slow-toilet (unreliable) magic trick is dishwashing liquid, which sometimes (but not always) lubricates things enough to make plunging far more effective. Just a little ...


2

You can often determine the whether the threading is right or left handed by looking closely at the first thread between the edge of the fitting. Your picture is not clear enough to tell this from the photo but this shows where to look. That said it is a pretty good guess that you would turn as shown below to remove. This is the conventional direction for ...


2

I had this same problem. I tried to de-clog my shower drain by pouring several capfuls of caustic soda (NaOH) down the drain. I was going to leave it for 30min and then flush it, but I forgot about it and accidentally left it overnight. The next morning the NaOH has formed a solid white plug at the top of the drain. I tried to jab through it with a hammer ...


2

I can tell you that in my area (we have full blown winters) the snaking is required once a year. You may be able to stretch in in a dry spell to two years, but is it worth the risk? Your alternative is to pull up the tree, or to change your drains to PVC, both of which are expensive vs snaking every year.


2

You should try to get past this crisis with only clearing a blockage, although eventually the cast iron will have to be replaced. If your house was one of a group of houses of the same construction, you could locate your cleanout by looking at other houses of the same plan in your neighborhood. I have helped several people in my neighborhood find their ...


2

I would go rent a snake. Plumber will do the same by using a snake but the charge to rent and doing it your self will be cheaper.


2

It's not likely to be a problem. The cement in the mortar is diluted enough that it won't create a plug downstream. You're mostly looking at clean silica sand. However, I'd play it safe and vacuum it out before flushing. I'd then disallow that contractor from entering my home ever again.


2

The best solution to this problem is to install a drain system that allows for easy inspection and cleaning. Here is an example of "the right way" to plumb that:


2

This problem could be caused by a bad slope in the waste line from the lower level toilet out to the exit point. As the upper level toilets are used the line to the lower toilet back fills and eventually creates the equivalent of a clog.


2

I can't see to the back of the fitting would it be possible to cut the pipe and use a coupler or union to repair when done? Each 90 causes a large amount of force to be required, with a 90 at the start then probably another 90 in a few inches that will make it tough now go down to ground level and another 90 some may be sweeps or t's but the force still ...


2

I have used the Ridgid snake, some similar snakes of other brands, chemicals, CO2 cartridges (after one time when a handyman used them - really amazing when they work!) and at times rented a BIG snake and (for the worst clogs - roots) - hired a handyman or plumber to do the job for me. I have had every type of sewage backup - hair clogs in the bathtub drain,...


2

Bleach and chlorine can get nasty very fast if you try to put other chemicals in the tank to help the tablet dissolve. I think the safest bet is to fill your tank with warm water and use that for several flushes. Don't use water that is too hot because that could start to cause issues with the wax seal on the toilet if that gets too warm. Just warm, ...


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