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16

Sounds like you need a chimney cap These come in a variety of sizes and shapes. They keep out most rain and snow and, most importantly, animals. You should attach any cap with stainless screws and lead anchors. Sealant is not a big issue, since there is no need for air or water tight joints. While sealant might hold in most conditions, strong winds could ...


9

You didn't mention how tall the chimney is. 2 story house or single. Is there or was there ever a displacement for a fireplace, one flue or two? Lined or bare brick interior? In general, the procedure is brick by brick. A small mini jack/impact hammer will speed up the process, but it can be done with a hammer and cold chisel. Most chimneys are ...


8

Pretty much any fix that you attempt from the inside has the potential to create issues in addition to the primary problem, which is that your chimney isn't properly flashed. Spraying foam or shooting caulking/tar into the gap is very likely to create water traps somewhere in the roof decking, most likely underneath the existing flashing. You would ...


7

Creosote from wood fires is the main reason, so no, cleaning from that standpoint isn't needed.


6

We removed an old brick chimney to install a modern (well, 1970's modern - stainless steel is more common these days in your better chimneys) block and tile chimney by simply hammering and removing bricks. If you do it top down it's "apparently more tedious" but actually less time overall than anything involving "knocking it down" and then clearing up the ...


5

Attaching to the chimney is not a good idea. Just forget about that idea. If you want to protect against a fall while you are at the top of the chimney, you need to anchor your line at or above your working height. If you don't have anything else near by then you're out of luck. I recommend looking to to renting a towable manlift.


5

Your dad is wrong. Chimneys have been used for non-fireplace heating systems since the days of the Franklin Stove. Also, remember that the interior of the house may have been drastically rearranged over the years. My kitchen definitely isn't where it was when the place was built, and in fact the old kitchen space is now my dining room. The only way to be ...


4

The way fire insert stoves work is relatively simple in conversion. You cut the damper out of the fireplace, run stainless steel pipe (6" dia.) up the inside of the chimney. The lengths are held together with 3-6 sheetmetal screws so this is an actual inside pipe assembly and it hangs off a sheetmetal cap that covers the top of the chimney and is silicone ...


4

You need to use a listed insulating stovepipe anytime combustible construction is penetrated. These pipes are also listed to be enclosed by construction. Thus it seems acceptable to me to install the listed stovepipe and enclose it inside a decorative copper tube. For good measure, you should probably have some provision for venting the resulting annular ...


4

There is no reliable data I know of for the ultimate strength of expansion anchors in brick masonry. It's not a viable anchor system no matter how many you use (within reason). You are almost better off with no protection because then you will make damn sure you do not fall. (Just kidding, but there is some logic to this amongst rock climbers). An anchor ...


4

A suitable ladder stabiliser would provide a little extra extra security.


4

It sounds like your chimney cap top might have flew off for that much water to come in. Mine just a few months ago and I had to secure it with extra screws. I would check that first. If it is only coming inside the chimney it really has to be top of the cap or that you need caulking around the base of your cap.


4

Allow for the possibility that you or the next owner might want to use them again, and try closing them off "less destructively" - metal flashing as @bib suggests, or my personal favorite for this job, a glazed ceramic tile mortared onto the top of the flue. Stays put, sheds water, can be knocked free in the future if there's ever a need for it.


4

I would really suggest that you should hire a local expert to come out to your place to give you advice on the chimney condition, design and safety. I am quite sure that there was good reason to cap off and close up the chimney and fireplace in the past and it is highly unlikely that you will come to an understanding of the reasons without some seasoned ...


4

That would depend on the pipe, and its required clearance to combustibles. If it's 0" - no problem. If it's 2" - get carving.


4

I do not know if it is necessary to actually fill it, but as a minimum I would use metal to create a collar to keep it stationary and to keep the weather, bats and other critters from causing future headaches.


3

It means what it says. If you go 10 feet from the chimney in any direction horizontally, you need to be at least 2 feet above the roof. Which means that your chimney is poorly located, if it's within 10 feet of a higher roof. So it needs to be 12 feet tall, if that's what it takes. Wind currents over that higher roof can cause downdrafts in the chimney - and ...


3

A mid size rotary hammer (SDS plus or SDS max) with a point and a chisel will break the bricks out. Have an extra manual chisel, mason's hammer and prybar on hand (to free the rotary hammer, when you get carried away and plunge too deep). Hand, eye and head (hard hat) protection are advised. Dust masks, too.


3

We were able to find someone to do this. They removed part of the roof on the garage and built a ramp over the ply wood to toss down bricks. They removed it to below the roof of the chimney and patched the hole in the roof and reinstalled the metal panels. They also put siding on the house where the chimney was. No mess in the living room and it was ...


3

Assuming the flue is not shared by any other devices of combustion on the first floor or above, you can use anything temporarily to block the draft and keep vermin out. you can use some mortar with a metal backing plate. Cut a piece of sheet metal in a rectangular shape slightly narrower than the hole diameter and a few inches taller than the hole. Put a ...


3

The first thing I would check, is to make sure there are no blockages in the vent. If there is debris restricting the flow of air, it could produce noise. Another cause of this could be that the wind is blowing just rught across the top of the pipe causing it to vibrate, similar to blowing across the top of a bottle to produce sound. To prevent this, you ...


3

Just wanted to make sure this was recorded: Be careful to look at what else the chimney may be supporting, In my 1880's house, the base of the chimney used to help support the ground floor's main beam; that eventually faled which is why the beam now has columns under it (and why the dining room, and the bedroom above it, have tilted floors). It is possible ...


3

Have you the faintest clue what 10 feet of chimney weighs? "reinforce here" to WHAT exactly, that's going to hold up 10 feet of bricks? This is a bad, terrible unthinkable idea. Take it down from the top, or hire somone else to take it down from the top, or far enough from the top that you feel comfortable working on it. Don't kill yourself, or someone ...


3

Correlation is not causation. No, the insulation did not make your roof leak around the chimney nor at the vent. Being 100 years old (and odds are great someone did something sketchy during one of those years, though even the best construction/repair jobs don't last forever) did that. Rather than chase chimeras, fix the leaks.


3

98% of small leaks are water getting into the flashing area between the chimney and the flashing or the flashing and the shingles. The flashing sealant you have should work fine - although you need to make sure for a caulking type sealant that this is applied liberally and squeezed into the gaps. I often use FlexSeal for smaller leaks because of its ...


3

Yes, spray foam is combustible. What you have there is almost certainly a building code violation as well as violation of the spray foam manufacturer's installation instructions and as such you have a legal right to make the company you hired come back to fix it. It's also a fire hazard. Sprayed polyurethane foam will start to burn at about 650 degrees ...


3

Of course if you can get a camera up (or down) the flue then you might be able to see excessive build up of carbon (etc.) deposits. However, it will be as black as can be up there and the small light on most USB type endoscopes might not be bright enough to really make an accurate assessment. Generally, if you're thinking the chimney might need cleaning, ...


3

I added a chimney cap, and the leaking was significantly reduced during rains. (Image from http://Lowes.com) I later noticed that during rain, water was pooling on the ground near the chimney. So I built up soil against the base of the house. This made the rain water run down and away. After both fixes, there is no longer any water leaking in, even ...


3

No. That would be like sealing the bottom side of a sponge--moisture will travel through it to emerge in other areas. You can probably accomplish the repair even in winter. A water hose will quickly melt snow and ice from the areas you need to access, or use scaffolding and other hardware to work over it.


2

Is there a chimney cap? If not, start there. If there is a chimney cap, and it's a brick chimney, odds are you have cracks and/or missing mortar--at which point I'd say your chimney is unsafe...both as a combustion exhaust (you don't want fumes leaking into the house) and as a safety issue (falling bricks hurt). I'd call out a licensed chimney inspector/...


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