New answers tagged ceiling
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I mount removable panels with Velcro. I purchase the self adhesive type if it won’t stick I staple it 4 small pieces will hold a fair size piece of plywood and your drain pieces sound very light weight.
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I've considered similar and settled on the following: MAGNETS AND SCREWS
In each corner use a good quality neodymium magnet with a countersink hole. Don't use the cheap ones including many found on Azm as they are too thin (break easy) and the screw hole is often some very small size. Here is an example of a better quality one.
Attach the magnet either the ...
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The "how to" is you send that rubbish back to the dark place. It is not safe nor legal, and doesn't even fit our wiring. You bought it in a way that circumvented the systems that assure quality, safe products in the consumer retail stream. Don't do that with electrical gear.
Then you buy any of a wide variety of products which do that same function, ...
answered Mar 21 at 7:35
Harper - Reinstate Monica
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I had this problem as well, I installed a couple of 'leaf springs' on a plastic register and it stays in place very well. Here's a link to a video I made for it.
https://youtu.be/bHWa9MCxrDQ
The Wright Handyman
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Another idea is to attach two eye bolts of some kind to the joists on each side and suspend with some kind of strap between, but again not sure the hardware I should use to do that.
These solutions work but be careful and do the math:
People naively think that if there are two straps then 50% of the weight is held by each strap, but the amount of tension ...
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Just get a couple of joist hangers and add a 2x6 between your joists. Drill a small hole in the ceiling where you want the eye bolt first and poke a wire hanger through to help locate it from above.
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I vote for the solution of providing blocking in the attic but will suggest a technique which is very much easier to install than some of the other answers here. A side on looking picture will get the idea across quickly.
First trip to the attic to access the situation should include making measurements for spacing between the ceiling joists and the ...
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My suggested solution is hidden blocking in the ceiling. From below, put a small hole where you want to connection so that from above you can locate where to place the block.
In the attic, install a 2x4 (about 22-1/2" long) between the trusses, centered over the hole you made, and tight to the ceiling dry wall. Screw through the trusses into the ends of the ...
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You've hit on three viable options. I'll make some notes on each so you can decide.
Run a cleat across the gap
Requires perhaps the most damage to the finished ceiling, but simple and fairly easy
A 2x6 laid flat against the ceiling will carry the weight just fine (avoid boards with large knots)
Four 3-1/2" by 3/8" lag screws, properly piloted into the ...
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Easiest is probably to attach a piece of wood to the surface of the ceiling screwed into the joists with structural screws. 2x4 would be fine here as the load is only about 80kg
Even painted to match the room that's not going to look particularly good
best would be to put 2x4 blocking between the joists and attach to that. that's going to be messy ...
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You're dealing with some major renovations. I don't think we would be able to answer that accurately just by looking at pictures. The easiest part would be rerouting the electric cables. Junction boxes could be mounted to the joists but the boxes would have to be accessible forever. The plex plumbing would be a nightmare and the drain piping almost ...
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It looks like there is more damage likely hidden under the plaster and the wood members there would be structural. You should remove the plaster to get to and repair this damage or verify that there is none.
I suggest removing all the plaster of the relatively small area that is the ceiling of the bay window and replace with drywall after the repair work is ...
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For a larger drywall patch, say 2'x2', here's what I have done... It's a little time consuming but fairly clean.
I cut 90% of the square hole out with a repic saw and leave enough uncut for the drywall to not fall out (making a huge mess). I have someone hold a shop vac close to the saw to get the dust. Then I get 2 pieces of wood similar in size to that of ...
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If the water damage on your ceiling were extensive I would suggest cutting the ceiling open because you'd probably have to replace some of it anyway - but it looks minor. With the shower directly above this spot that's the likely culprit. However, water does strange things and can travel some distance before the leak seeps through the drywall. You may or may ...
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That's an odd place for caulking to be applied.
Chances are very good that you have a leak above this that is dripping water down onto the drywall and softening it.
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Not sure this is appropriate to your situation, but the typical way one hangs a lightweight light fixture on a box, is typically with a crossbar of some sort.
Here is an example of a general purpose fixed one. There are a variety of these type things out there. Often provided with a fixture.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-3-7-8-in-5-...
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We made a similar change once. The contractor put up cross-connected ties -- sorry, I forget the proper name -- which run from one wall to near the peak on the other side of the ridgeline. You lose about a foot of ceiling height at the peak (inside) but then you have a cathedral ceiling without any cross-ties at all. Aesthetically much nicer.
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I commented above that the question can't really be answered, but I have a few thoughts to share...
Would it be possible to raise the ties up so that he could use a single 20' board for the full span?
My concerns are that the ties will sag due to the long span, and that the rafter tails may not be adequately anchored to the wall plates if you remove the ...
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