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You can not safely hang a fan on this box, but you can hang a fan through this box, or beside it. The fan hardware in the new Hunter fans I have installed came with two long wood screws designed to screw through holes in the pancake box into a ceiling joist.


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Your wiring is known as Knob and Tube which probably has an insulation mainly made of tar and cloth. Without examining your house I personally would not trust that circuit with a fan load. Also the fan has vibration associated with it so one screw is an accident waiting to happen. My guess is that box is nailed to a 2x piece of wood. My recommendation would ...


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Possible open neutral circuit. You will need a volt meter to determine if there is any potential from hot to neutral. If not, then your lights and fans won't work there even though you have "voltage" present and (hopefully) indicated from hot to ground. The next step would be to check the other end of that cable for a loose white wire.


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Since you're in a new home, invest in a multi meter so you'll know "how much". With the power off, remove the switch plate and pull the switches out, turn the power back on and test for voltages and correct wiring. There should be always hot on both switches, probably pigtailed to both switches and switched hot, black and red, from each switch and ...


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You can cap the wire even if hot. This is not uncommon where the fan was to run all the time or controlled by its pull chain and the lights by the switch. Yes it is fine to cap a live wire in this case you may use it later for a different type of remote, the wire is not abandoned but for future use. This is code compliant. From what I see the red is switched ...


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3-core cable has lots of uses. It all is manufactured black white red. The uses on a fan/light are allow separate switching or control of the fan and light, so you aren't forced to turn them on together. Keep in mind both building and electrical codes require that there a switch in the room in the usual location (which is how you can find a light in a hotel ...


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There are two possibilities: If the line cable enters in the switch box, a proper cable from a wall switch box to the ceiling fan box would have separate switched hots, black and red, for the fan and a light fixture. There would be two switches in the wall, one for the fan and one for the light. This would be a /3 cable and the white would be a common ...


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Normally that type of wiring at the ceiling box would be a white neutral, an always hot black wire and a red switched hot, would become hot when a switch was turned on and a ground. This is wired this way so a fan light could be operated by a switch and the fan operated by the fan pull chain, but it doesn't have to be like that. This could have been reversed ...


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From your posts it seems you've been thorough, especially concerning wiring and mounting. Perhaps the answer is a simple one. Sometimes the fan blades themselves cause wobbling. Check each blade, if there is one or more that is crooked, at an unequal angle compared to the others or not tightened well enough that might be the cause. Hopefully that's it & ...


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For a quick fix with the power off you can open it up Find the 2 wires that go to the switch and tie them together with a wire nut or Other type of terminal splice. These switches are inexpensive and available on line but are usually not repairable. They can be found online as cheep as 1.50$ and 5$ at your local store.


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Most likely (because anything is possible), the two black wires going into one end of the switch (back stab and screw next to it) are "incoming hot" and "pass-through hot". All neutrals (white) are together (which is good) and all groups (bare copper) are together (which is required). If your new smart switch has screws: Line/hot/...


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Elementary, My Dear One cable comes from the upstream source (the service panel or another device box). One cable is the light loop, in which the black (hot) is switched and the white (neutral) is the return. This is the only cable you can identify with any certainty without a voltage test since its path is broken by the switch. One cable simply passes ...


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It has multiple speeds. The sequences is Off-High-Medium-Low-Off (repeating). High is first for reasons. The problem is, the fan doesn't have an "emergency brake" to INSTANTLY stop the blades when you reach the "off" position. When you click from "high" to "Medium", the fan will slllllowly reduce speed, and ...


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You can if you’re willing to make the receptacle always hot, in which case you can repurpose the white wire to the switch box as a neutral. Basically, after turning off the power, you remove the switch first. Then, you reconnect the receptacle with your usual middle-of-the-run receptacle wiring, white to silver, black to brass, though you may have to replace ...


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i don't think there's anything wrong with it per se, that's just how it's made/designed. The cause is quite complex, but I'll try to explain. Keep in mind that the built-in LED is very sensitive to even small amounts of power. When you use the remote to turn it off, a tiny computer in the fan either tells the LED's DC power supply to turn off, or it ...


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