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2

I would say this home is C 1920. But I guess it could be built more recently like and older home. It's possible those columns are not so load bearing. The joists above the porch could be cantilevered. Like.. But even if load bearing I don't think it is that big of a deal. Just support them well under the porch. http://stairs4u.com/glossary/images/...


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Thanks to everyone for the great ideas which led me to "my" solution. I bought the Kreg Crown-Pro and although a great tool it lifts the molding to high and my saw can't make the complete cut. However, the Kreg directions (not the tool) were the key for me. I carefully clamped the molding to the saw upside down. I used the Kreg methodology to find the ...


6

To answer your specific questions, you shouldn't assume spring angle is 45 degrees. Put a framing square on the flats of the crown and you'll know if it's symmetrical or 38/52. To cut this flat, your bevel and miter angles are somewhere in the 30 degree range. See the link below to figure the actual numbers. Since your saw doesn't flop both ways, you might ...


2

Another option would be to use carriage bolts on both sides of where the eye hooks are going in. Glue the boards together with construction adhesive. Use 4 bolts, two on each side of the eye hooks, top and bottom. Use 3/8" bolts, ( or 1/2" ) large washers and nuts. Personally i would just glue the boards together with construction adhesive and screw them ...


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Instead of screw into the seam You can use a bolt through the seam and use a washer+metal plate on the other side to spread the load.


4

You could use a pair of large clamps close to and flanking the screwhole to prevent the screws from pushing the plies apart. Once the screw is in at full depth the clamp is removed. It might take four clamps--from both edges of the beam. Also you might want to use wax or other appropriate lubricant on the screws and be careful to avoid making the "pilot" ...


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Apply glue and clamping pressure from the center and work slowly upwards. As you gradually tighten the clamps, fit the slots back in place working upwards as the space between the stiles closes. It should slide back together. You might add a mechanical fastener to the top to strengthen it. I've fixed similar doors this way. Be patient and don't rush it.


2

If the joist hanger is slightly wider than the joist ( joist, not stud ) then do not push it in towards the joist. Fasten it parallel with one side up against the joist and a gap on the other side. Then fasten the gap side to the ledger board parallel so it does not bow at the bottom, ( do not push it in to the joist ) Before you fasten the gap side to ...


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What about this method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hv27hrOz0g I have heard of people lightly toe nailing the joist in place and then placing the hanger.


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