New answers tagged carpentry
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A few tips I have on this
Measure, mark, and then snap a chalk line. For long rips like this you really really need a guide line or you'll think you were drunk in cutting. Even still, you may have some wobble. If you must have a straight edge, use a table saw
Have another person help. There's some ways to make this work solo, but you might break something (...
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Use a table saw if possible. Otherwise:
The basic idea is to keep the board either flat or in some tension with the ends lower than the center.
Assuming a 15' 2x6
With 2 saw horses, you can put them 3 feet from either side of the cut. When you cut the board, the two sides will slowly rotate upwards, but if you get the saw horses reasonably close to the ...
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My normal way to deal with this is to put 3 scraps of 2x4 on the floor. One is on the longer board near the cut point. One is at the end of the longer board, or at least halfway. The third is not quit halfway down the short end. This gives you 1.5" clearance.
When you make the cut, the short piece is trying to pivot upward at the saw, but the sole plate ...
4
There are two approaches I'd recommend.
Use three or four support points. If you have four saw horses, and cut in the center space, both cut boards are supported. There's no issue. Even three support points is adequate since you can have one hand on one end of one cut board.
Catch the cut board with your "off" hand. I'm right-handed, so I'd have the full ...
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Put the 2x6's on a flat surface, like the garage floor or deck or another long board, and set the depth of the saw just enough to go through the wood but no further. You can weight down the ends if you need to. Make the cut... the wood will not bind the blade and you'll get a straight, clean cut, and you won't have to be lifting 15' 2x6's. This works! Good ...
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Have extra supports either side of the saw, with the one not clamped to the machine slightly lower to allow it to drop a small amount - again to stop it binding.
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