11

Put the leg that best matches your shelf width under the shelf. That is why there's different leg sizes. The bracket's critical section is the inner corner, it is equally strong in both directions. That said, usually the critical portion of the entire assembly is the withdrawal of the upper wall screw. Having the long leg against the wall somewhat reduces ...


8

Looks like an L corner bracket/brace. Probably worth upgrading to a metal one if it would fit: Amazon product link


6

The most obvious thing is to get a patch panel designed for a 19" rack or one that comes with an adapter plate. If you have your heart set on using the patch panel that you have then you would be faced with creating something of your own. I believe that the easiest way to do that is to purchase a ready made blank 19" rack panel that is higher than your ...


5

There is a simple answer to this. Cut the angle matching the roof on the ceiling joist, slide it in on top of your wall and attach it to the side of the rafter. Then attach them together with small lags or carriage bolts. If you look at your picture the 8" joist will be in contact with the rafter well beyond your walls. The rafters will help carry the ...


5

A cardboard or soft aluminium (from a drink can) shim sounds like an excellent solution to the problem. You want it just thick enough that the screws into the handrail cause the loop to grip tightly when they are done up.


4

Should be fine, especially for indoor use, where there is little moisture and salt. Zinc and aluminum are pretty close galvanically, so the zinc coating should help. In fact, most bolts used on aluminum-structure airplanes are made of steel plated with zinc or cadmium (source).


4

There is a 3/4" extender sold by Cooper Industries (and maybe others). They call it a cover. This site sells it and it probably can be found elsewhere online. You need to be sure that the box in the ceiling is firmly attached to the framing, preferably directly screwed into a joist. Fan rated boxes have heavier duty attachments for the fan hanger and use ...


4

The standard is 67" up to the top of a 1X4 ledger and 12" from drywall for single hanging. the centerline of the closet pole cup is typically is 2" from the top of the ledger, it can be lower, then the ledger needs to be wider to accommodate. That puts the shelf at 67 3/4" to the top. The 11 1/4" shelf will give the room needed to get the hanger on. This is ...


4

As far as I know, there is no "standard" for this. I've looked for them. The only standards have to do with the actual closet dimensions that are specified in building codes. A common convention is 12" from the back wall to the center of the rod. People typically put the closet rods in the middle of the closet. Minimum closet depth is 24" so that puts the ...


4

A medium duty, standard single slot, blade bracket? Source: beta.lvmannequins.com Another option might be removing the plastic caps off the uprights and slide something down there; put 'legs' on the board and slip it in. Isn't that how some partitions with glass tops work?


4

If your box is that small it is almost certain that it is not a fan rated box. If it is not, then the box MUST be replaced with a fan rated box. Sorry, but even with approval, someone unlicensed, uninsured, and unqualified SHOULD NOT be doing electrical work in a place that they rent. This is a perfect example; something as "simple" as changing a ceiling ...


4

I would refrain from using that type of fastener. I believe it will allow a lot of movement. I made a sketch to show what I have made before, many years ago. It does not have any hangers just angled notches that allow the legs to fit tightly and notches that act as a setting for the beam to bear on. A single bolt will draw it all together, or two could be ...


4

As you're just asking about which order to attach the pieces, and not different methods, there is very little difference. Mounting the brackets to the wall first may make it easier to ensure you hit studs, but you'll have to be careful to make them exactly level with each other. Attaching them to the desk first ensures they are level, but you'll need to ...


3

This looks like a bad piece of engineering design to use a slip finger bracket to mount a cantilever paper holder. This type of bracket would work pretty good for a towel bar that was mounted on both ends or possibly for a soap dish that was mounted right on center. I can suggest two possible courses of action that would solve the problem as long as the ...


3

Based on the flexibility of the flat bar stock, I decided to use square 1/2" tube stock. Using a 3/4" MDF subtop, I routed channels 5/8" wide and 9/16" deep. I then filled these channels with polyurethane glue, set in the steel bars, and finally I used a drywall knife to spread and flatten glue over the top of the bars. Here are pictures of my actual work:...


3

If the shelf you're putting up is a solid wood shelf and not particle board, an 11" bracket will be fine (assuming it's a metal bracket). Certainly it's not ideal, but I don't know what you have for hardware stores in Israel. The grain of the wood will be perpendicular to the brackets, which would give you a chance to break the wood out at the end, but how ...


3

The product you are looking for are brackets for what is called "standards". They come in many different sizes. Ikea likes to put fancy names on things so they can charge more. Just goto your local home improvement store/hardware store and tell the person there that you are looking for brackets to fit standards.


3

There are no standard sizes. Braces of the type you are considering most commonly have holes that are less than 1/4" and more than 1/8", somewhere around 3/16". They are usually intended for #6, #8 or #10 screws. You could probably use 1/8" bolts, or maybe 3/16" depending on the brace. 1/4" bolts probably won't fit unless you ream out the holes. Which ...


3

You need to acquire a light fixture mounting bracket. The type that you need would look like the bracket as shown in the picture below: Install it through the longer slotted holes into the existing electrical box holes. You can use the screws from the old light fixture. Due to the deep recess of the electrical box the bracket arm with the long slotted ...


3

I think those are Simpson Strong-Tie HD3B, or maybe a HD5B. At under 10 bucks a pop, you can probably afford to buy one just to look at it and see if you think it suits your needs. edit: just looked at the fancy $100 ones, and I can see how you get way better attachment from them. I suggest you integrate a strap that ties the bracket to the underside of the ...


3

An air conditioner can be installed on pretty much any brick, concrete or block wall. As long as it is installed properly, there is no issues to it falling or structural integrity of the building. Air conditioners are mounted on brackets all over the world, especially where space is a premium. You can always place rubber pads between the brackets and the ...


3

Whether the 2" side up or the 4" side up, it doesn't matter in terms of the stress on the bolt. We can do a simple analysis as below. In the figure below your T-shaped bracket in drawn in blue while the two bolts are drawn in red. For simplicity we assume that the bracket only contacts the wall via the two bolts at the very top and very bottom end. W is the ...


3

How about a "T Nut"? Drill a hole for the central threaded part, then knock it in so the teeth grip & hold.


2

Something like this? A framing angle. Home Depot and Lowes both will have them or similar in the lumber departments.


2

How much of an overhand do you plan on having? The spec I saw was that 10 inches were allowed with no supports. When the granite guy came to measure mine he told me I didn't really need them even at 12. I had alread put in corbels which look good, but do get in the way of knees. If I did it again, I would consider going to 10" and not having any bracking. ...


2

I tried to think of an adaptive use of some common building product but drew blanks. That may be why purpose made ones are expensive. If it really seems exorbitant, you might be able to get a local metal shop to fabricate one for less. For that matter, someone with decent carpentry skills could build one from wood. The joint designs would be critical to ...


2

One thing to consider if you're mounting this bag on the wall, all the weight is going to be supported by 2 nails per stud that attach the stud to the top plate. These nails are preventing the stud from pulling out from the wall and falling over. I don't have a lot of confidence that you can hang a heavy bag from one or two studs without causing damage that ...


2

10 inches (254 mm) to the center of the rod, minimum. The widest hangers I know about are 18.5", so half of that is 9.25" plus 3/4" wiggle room. Though some hanger rod brackets are ~12" (304.8 mm) to the center of the rod.


2

Half a hanger + the thickness of the clothes would be your minimum, but the vast majority are 12"/300mm, and most but possibly not all brackets are that size.


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