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1

Simply, a bolt is not relying on the holding strength of the threads in wood fiber. It is a metal-to-metal sandwich that is holding boards together from both sides. A bolt connection will normally be stronger than a lag screw, but that increased strength is often not needed, and access to both sides of the joint is not always possible. If there is any ...


2

You access the top of the screw. It probably has a philips head on it. The means of removing the seat varies. I am not an expert on this but I happen to have seen a couple of these recently. One had a button on the bottom of the lid at the centre - with lids upright. Depress button (well it lifts up away from the floor), lift lids gently and the lids come ...


5

The other answers aren't wrong, but may be optimistic. On mine, the heads weren't accessible from above - the chromed metal covers weren't going to come off with any reasonable force. I managed to unscrew the whole seat by using mole grips (AKA vise grips, self-locking pliers) on the exposed threads, and used the same method to refit it. I could have ...


31

That is called a blind jack nut, jack nut, blind collapsing nut, etc. They are typically used when you don't have access to and/or don't have the tools to hold onto a nut on the backside of whatever you're putting it into. As you turn the bolt the wedge will move along its length, moving into/out of the split nut which adds/removes force that pushes the ...


8

That is a collapsible nut that fits into various size holes. As the comment says, undo the bolt from the top - you may have a plastic cover to remove. But no image so my "goto" is usually a small screwdriver - just don't stab a finger with it. Note that if you keep tension on the bolt head by pulling on it as you unscrew it then the "nut" will stay located ...


0

According to Confast, one manufacturer of such anchors, you are supposed to: "insert the double expansion anchor with the nut first into the hole" By "nut first" I believe the narrator must mean the threaded end. (Source: https://youtu.be/LNz6IaM9BK0?t=102 linked to from https://www.confast.com/how-to-install-double-expansion-anchors) The Confast ...


5

I recently found out the local name for a head like that translates to slotted flat. The screwdriver fitting those heads is an H-screwdriver. Look like this: However, for the smaller screws (with heads up to 5-6mm), it's common to simply take an old flathead screwdriver and a hacksaw. Might take a couple of minutes, but they can be made yourself quite ...


2

This is deceptively hard to test. When torque is specified for a fastener, it's really the torque that should be applied when the fastener is installed. Your test, which I believe is called a "first movement test" - creeping up on the torque until the fastener moves - tests how much torque it takes to make it tighter right now. You might naturally ...


4

That is a style of head, known of as "notched spanner", most security bit sets will have bits to fit it. The bit is like a normal flatblade screwdriver but with a notch cut in the middle. Unfortunately bits generally don't work on screws that are down holes, because the bit (or worse for deep holes or short bits, the combination of bit and bit holder) ends ...


0

I would do the opposite, ie trying to tighten the bolt and finding the amount of torque to just make it move increasing the tightness.


10

It is a simple security slot headed screw. A flat headed screw has part of the slot filled in to make it difficult for the average joe to undo. Either purchase a set of security bits or take an old screwdriver and grind out the matching part on the screwdriver blade so it fits neatly.


14

It looks like a spanner tamper-proof security bolt. Either buy a set of tamper-proof security bits, or modify a cheap standard slotted screwdriver with a dremel tool. Here is a cheap set: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W8659-Security-32-Piece/dp/B002KS19PK/ A good chance that something in this set will work, but no guarantee.


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