I literally buy pressure-treated wood sight-unseen.
I live near a chain of lumber yards that offers convenient delivery at a reasonable price. They offer pressure-treated fence posts with a consistent quality level, which is appropriate for my uses of the lumber. I can call them up, ask for a number of fence posts cut to a particular length, and arrange ...
Concrete screws are fine, but they don't have great pullout strength in concrete block. If properly installed in poured concrete they're quite strong.
If you happen to have a block wall I'd use an expanding anchor of some sort. Plastic plugs, togglers, and expanding sleeves would all be appropriate.
Finally, size and quantity are important. I ...
Yes, they are called “rising butt hinges”.
The “joint” is at an angle and as they rotate it gives vertical movement.
Here is a link to one such product: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rising-Butt-Door-Hinges-Stainless/dp/B00GK5QLY8
@jasper has a good answer, but to address the actual "standing in the store" side of things...
First, know what you need in a board. Do you need the entire length, or are you going to be nipping some off? Do you need it to be straight? Do you need something that's more dry or more wet? Do the faces have to look nice or will anything do?
With the above in ...
I misread about the masonry walls. I've actually installed base trim using trim screws and plastic plug anchors. It works fine, but the holes in the trim are larger.
Glue is only used for joints, and nails pull out of the wall fairly easily when the boards are removed. They can then be pulled through the boards from the back side so ...
You should use mineral spirits or mythle-hydride to dilute oil based paints. I don't really think that diluting the primer is the best solution though. It would be best to lay it on thick with a heavily padded roller and then back roll it out. Primers job is to seal and adhere. Thinning it will only prevent it from doing its job.
is there any reason to not go through with the plywood?
Yes, the reason is that the manufacturer of the waterproof membrane you say you intend to use (Aquadefense) forbids the use of plywood as a substrate for tile on an interior vertical surface. You can only use it on horizontal surfaces like countertops and floors, and only in dry areas, not showers.
One of the joys of actual ceramic tile (as opposed to various plastic tile products) is a high tolerance for moisture.
The major consideration for any ceramic tile job is how solid the floor under it is - what it won't tolerate is much movement/flexing. Depending on the specifics of your existing deck/floor, that may be a reason to add layers to stiffen it....
1/4" hardibacker alone is an unsuitable substrate for shower wall tile. If it were attached to properly waterproofed drywall, plywood, or plaster it would be fine. Think about it, one wayward elbow, knee, or hip bump and you may get flexion which would cause the grout (or tile) to crack.
what is the preferred method for laying tile on concrete slab floor?
I agree with Joe, I suggest using a thicker paint roller. Look for a roller that works well for stucco ceilings. Deffenitly dont use gasoline, that will make your house smell horrible and not good for your health to breath in. Once you have applied the primer use a thinner roller for the high gloss coat to leave a nice smooth finish.
For a food-safe wood finish, I have had good success using a 1:1 ratio of real pure tung oil and citrus solvent.
My kitchen table is cypress, which is much softer than birch or beech, soft enough that I need to lightly sand and refinish the table every year or so. Working with tung oil and citrus solvent rather than a lacquer makes this task very easy ...