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how the panels of this tub were connected such that if the top panel were removed, the whole structure wouldn't loose rigidity and become floppy The top of each section should be secured to the studs with screws. An easy way to test if this is the case is to run a magnet along the seam and see if it is pulled toward screws at regular intervals.


In terms of water ingress into the stud space, the tub surround will be 1/4in high on the sides of the tub, but the lip of the tub stands high enough to lip behind the surround. You can check this by measuring the height of the tub's lip and comparing to the "droop" of the tub. However, you might have water standing at the lip if the current slope ...


I'd try to raise the back edge 1/4" to level the tub and then pack in mortar underneath both sides as far as I could get it in. Possibly install a few shim strips to fill the gap. Those surrounding tile stalls really do need a level tub or you'll need to shim the wall.


Probably not grit but calcium deposits that collect in the mechanism.


We have this same shower faucet and it was not wanting to shut off and shower would keep running. We went to home depot and bought a new cartridge for the brand the valley and was able to replace it very easily and we are not handy people, usually hire put if something needs fixed.


Rusty steel tubs tend to get worse, not better, nor even stop where they are. When it inevitably rusts more, you'll be ripping out any tiling you do now as well as the old tub. You can certainly try various rust-treatment nostrums, but I'd suggest just facing the tub replacement now as the more certain path to a tile job that can stay put on a tub that's not ...


A stem extension kit might work. Without seeing the trim I couldn't say for sure.


Since you've indicated that you have access to the back side of the wall, my answer is to move the plumbing. It doesn't sound fun or easy, but it shouldn't be too bad. Use grinding and drilling tools to carve out the framing and drywall as needed, then shift and re-secure the plumbing. The 1x4 down low may not even be a problem. I'd bet that the two 1/2"...


It might be marketing, or it might be fact (or both!) but caulking that's designed specifically for kitchen/bath applications has an anti-microbial element. Assuming your existing roofing caulk isn't too old, it would probably work. It might stink more than expected for a little while. If it was me, I'd get a fresh tube of kitchen/bath silicone from a place ...

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