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As shown in your photograph, “MIXET” is the brand of faucet. Apparently “Brasscraft” makes spare parts for MIXET brand faucets. In the USA, Brasscraft is widely available at “big box” home-improvement stores. Your locally owned, independent hardware store may carry compatible parts too. There are tutorials available online for this brand. Start here:...


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What is the total number of fixture units that you have on your 3" line? The clean out is not necessary, provided you can access it from the roof or another clean out is further up line. additional venting is not necessary. From viewing your photos, I would call in a professional plumber and have the repair done correctly and have someone that can be called ...


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A photo of the wiring would help , but it sounds like you have 2 wires going to the fan and light and 1 hot and got them mixed up. Mark all 3 wires going to the switch 1,2,3 or a b c. Basically you need to swap the 1 wire that is all alone with one of the 2 on the other side. Now it will work or the light will be on all the time , if the light is on all the ...


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Main problem Plexiglass and lexan are different from glass: They are much more flexible for a given thickness. They scratch very easily. They don't break casually. Of the two, lexan is tougher form. Because of the greater flexibility, you probably don't want to use the "minimalist metal" designs favoured by the glass shower door set. You probably want ...


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That's pretty much it. You'll know when you start cutting the stud nails whether there's significant pressure on the plate (the saw will move instead of the blade, and you along with it--it's a fun ride with a reciprocating saw :) ). If there is, you might use a jack to (gently) life the ceiling adjacent. Pad it well and don't punch through your drywall. ...


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It is better to support it just in case. Countertop support brackets will definitely help in this matter. Sizes range from 8x6 all the way to 24x16. Just keep in mind to leave enough space for future toilet repairs if you are going to install right above it.


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There are two types of diaphragm valves that you seem to know about in your question. One type uses external pressure to hold the valve closed, but another type uses the power of water pressure to do most of the work. An example of this second type is the common irrigation valve: Click picture for video I'm not going to quote the entire video, but ...


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Get a u-shaped insulated bracket and screw it over the Pex to hold the pipe closer to the wall. If there isn't enough room to do that, I'd run the pipe a different way.


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"how do I remove... the plywood under the edge of the fiberglass tub without damaging the tub?" I don't see how it will be possible. You can't chisel or saw it from below due to the subfloor and you can't get to it from above. I think you need to resign yourself to the fact that the tub should come out... "should I run the new 1/2" plywood underlayment......


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I have to tell you that that product is just not made for the application on the type of tub and tub surround that you have. If you were to try to start cutting it to fit against the tub corner and to the surround above that you would cut away the half inch edge of the splash guard leaving just the thin part to try to seal to the wall. If I were you I would ...


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The outside grille should definitely open when the fan is running. However, it isn't clear whether this is a cause or an effect of your airflow problem: The grille may be stuck, in which case you need to lubricate/free/unbind it There may be some other issue with the airflow, in which case nothing's pushing the grille open First stop: check the grill ...


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If the grout is crumbling because there is a problem with the grout itself, (like it was mixed improperly, etc.) you won't have to "re-tile" but I'm afraid, to fix it properly, you'll need to remove the old grout and regrout the floor. Another possibility is that the original grout was not applied correctly (perhaps it wasn't fully worked into the spaces ...


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The only real issue is rattling noise due to vibration, or creaking due to thermal expansion. In this case, since one pipe is plastic, it's probably not a concern. I'd try to lighten the tension between them by flexing the plastic a bit, or place a rag between to act as a silencer. Be sure that by doing so you don't create a tight spot against the lumber, ...


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I don't know about your local regulations, which you should look up yourself. But, to avoid heat loss, I would wrap the new pipe with an insulating sleeve, or, install one that was pre-insulated.


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Clean the surface that needs grout change then using a grout saw, remove the existing crumbly grout. Vacuum the debris to make sure everything is clean before adding the new grout. Prepare your grout mixture (best option for bathroom floor is SnapStone Urethane Flexible Grout) Using a margin float, apply grout on the floor. You want to make sure the gaps are ...


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I had the same problem and finally took the top hinge apart and placed a plastic tile spacer between the hinge and glass door so that it can’t slip anymore. Installer should have done this in the first place.


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You didn't answer whether you have a GFI, this is important information. While the outlets should be controlled by a GFI, we don't know what kind of setup you have or if ANYTHING ELSE is not working besides just the fan and light. ...and while you may know what breaker controls the fan+light, we do not. I asked about what else the breaker controls to ...


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There should be NO grout there it will always crack because you have 2 dissimilar materials that shrink and expand at different rates. The proper thing to use is caulking. Even where the wall meets the floor in the shower grout will work for awhile but will eventually fail as the floor moves different from the wall. But underneath the tile should be a rubber ...


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Just caulk it. Grout will tend to crack in any change of plane, so caulk is the recommended practice. For prep, scratch out anything that's loose or protrudes past your caulk profile. You'll probably want to use white for the tub transition and a color matched caulk for the tile-to-tile corner. A typical installation is caulked at the plane change and has ...


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Most natural stone won't cantilever that far without breaking. Even a synthetic like corian may or may not work. There's probably a narrow ledger (~1x2) supporting the back.


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Generally, (in the US at least) residential bath/toilet room exhaust fans are manufactured sold to meet the minimums required by the applicable building code. Historically this has been 50 cubic feet per minute irrespective of room size or fixture particulars. The purpose is general sanitation: reducing mold and diffusion of human waste vapors throughout the ...


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I'm still not sure what kind of aerator this is but I was able to remove it. After keeping the tip of the faucet soaked in a small bag of vinegar for a couple of hours, I was able to turn the aerator with a screwdriver but it didn't really feel like it was coming out. The plastic was also brittle and started breaking apart when I tried turning it, so ...


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Phosphate offers no more protection than galvanized or paint coating ; The good news is once the thinset cures ,they will always be dry so corrosion won't be a problem.


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The mirror will fog when you're showering with hot water no matter how good your exhaust fan is. The hotter water can continuously create more humidity than the fan can handle while the shower is running. If the mirror stays fogged for a long period after you've turned off the shower though you may have a fan issue.


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Depends on: The location of the fan relative to the shower and the mirror The effectiveness of the fan The air temperature in the room The initial relative humidity of the room The temperature and volume of the shower steam The length of the shower HVAC conditions Window configuration (sunlight and airflow) The bottom line is that it might, but it doesn't ...


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I'm skeptical that this damage is all coming from the hinge side of the glass door, that is unless your shower sprays directly on it. Could you confirm that as the water runs down the inside face of your shower door, and onto the bottom sweep, that it runs into your shower and down the drain? I have a feeling that if you pour water on the inside of the ...


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1) the vent in your picture is installed upside down. The vent will clearly mark which way end is the top of vent for installation purposes. 2) if you want to vent bathroom fans through the roof; use a gooseneck. The gooseneck has a flap that opens and shuts when the fan is on and then turned off. PRIMEX makes the best goosenecks in my opinion.


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I am going to put leftover floor vinyl on side bath panel, fixing with vinyl double-sided tape, temporarily stapled, trim with craft knife. Easy-peasy, it's no big deal.


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Had a similar problem last year. Called a plumber and he found that the drainpipe was clogged by roots close to the street which prevented the water from escaping. If your toilet has an inspection outlet you could check to see if this is also full to find out where the blockage is. Next step would be to call your Water supplier to find out if the blockage is ...


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Instead of carpet or fabric, consider using 1-2" thick pink foam insulation. It's available at most construction type stores, withstands enough weight to support concrete floors without crushing, can be easily cut and carved to shape, and doesn't rust.


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For over a year, this "unanswered" question has had an answer and acceptance in the comments: Looks like push-to-release connectors. So try pushing and removing the wire at same time.... at worst you can cut the wires as next as you can to the box and rewire the new outlet. – DDS May 19 '18 at 9:22 Turns out they were push to release connectors. ...


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For the most part there are only a few manufacturers of those fan motors, regardless of what brand the fan is. Most of them are interchangeable, but the critical dimension that you often must deal with is the length of the shaft that the fan itself is attached to (and how it attaches). You will need to remove it to determine what you need. What I have found ...


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This is a NUT: Channel locks or a slip lock wrench will work. Remove the metal piece on the threaded pipe first. For the top, I agreee with @jstola but it looks kinda like someone may have filled the bell housing with caulk (the white goo out the top doesn't belog there). Once in a while, these housings have a small recessed hole with an allen nut inside; ...


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Standard is 48" to the top screw hole of the box. So it looks aesthetically correct with the switches. I am a residential electrician, that's what we set them at.


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