New answers tagged

1

Any fortified thin set will work. I have used colored grout with add mix several times for glass block shower walls. Once the mortar is cured I then seal it the same as any tile job. There are pre mixed glass block mixes it is usually white.


1

Rather than using that spray foam you'd be better off getting a sheet of Styrofoam and cutting it to fit the opening around your fan. Make a template out of cardboard and then trace it on to the Styrofoam, cut it out and fit it into the opening. You can then caulk around it sealing it further. Now, you need to make that direct connection to the duck you said ...


0

After you try all the other recommendations from the other guys and you still can't get a good shower, try one more shower head that may work for you. It is a Delta Model 52650-PK that you can get from numerous places. I ordered mine from the on-line Home-Depot web site for about $15.00. I was tired of the miniscule flow from all the other shower heads that ...


1

I normally put it on the left side (public toilet), due to the fact that the majority uses the right hand to do the wiping and cleaning. I feel much safer to pull the tissue using my left hand and to pass it to my right to do the action. I hope it make sense.


0

Breakers definitely go bad. There are many moving, spring loaded parts in them and with age they go bad. One final test would be to swap breakers in the main panel to verify the faulty breaker. Then you could pick one up at your home store and save the price of an electrician. This shouldn't be done unless you're very familiar with the procedure. Good luck.


0

Yes, it's entirely possible for a breaker to go bad. The symptoms you describe are consistent with such a problem. You should replace it immediately as in this condition it may not perform as it was designed to and you could be at risk for a fire should a short-circuit occur. When in doubt, change it out!


0

Eric G is spot-on regarding spray foam. More specifically, the best insulation for the walls behind the tub (and/or shower) is ccSPF (closed cell spray polyurethane foam) insulation. It's the best for a few reasons: ccSPF has the highest insulation value at R-6.5/in it's vapor and water impermeable it will seal up any gaps, cracks, and hard to get at ...


1

Honestly? The easiest fix is to replace the whole towel rail, at your own cost. The only tools you'll need is a large Phillips screwdriver, and perhaps some cleaning products for the wall. The only critical measurement is the overall length. So take the old one off the wall, and go visit a hardware store. The US has Lowes or Home Depot or Walmart or ...


4

NuTone likely doesn't have anything to do with this. That is a newer NuTone fan cover that has been drilled to fit over the center post on what is a very old vent fan. That vent fan used to have a round cover that likely broke at some point. That whole unit needs to be replaced. The fan and housing look over 50 years old - there's just no point in trying ...


1

That's a pretty old unit. Based on the (apparent) metal blades, the color of the motor housing, and the design of the mount, I'd guess it's at least 30-40 years old. I can't find the model number on any old resources for NuTone models. To be honest, I'm not sure you're going to find anything online to help with anything that old. Your best bet would be ...


0

It is a nutone brand they are still made, you may be able to revive it with a couple of drops of oil in each end worked into the bearings. I have done this many times over the years even a very light penetrating oil will work for a year most of the time but a couple of drops of motor oil any weight can last for years. As far as identifying the motor without ...


9

I have had and solved this problem. There are three wood dowels on each side between those cam lock screws. You must cut them. When you do, you will be able to tilt the side piece in order to extract the screws. I did not feel like getting out my multittool for such a small job, so I used a sharp bread knife. The dowels are not even 1/4" so you will have no ...


2

Nope, because it's a receptacle in a bathroom Any receptacle you add in any bathroom must be on a circuit that follows one of these rules. The circuit serves ONLY bathroom receptacles, and nothing else - no receptacles outside bathrooms, no fixed loads of any kind. These bathroom receptacles can be in any number of bathrooms. The circuit serves ONLY ...


1

You should be able to put in a normal receptacle or other device there. Assuming this is inside a bathroom, it will need to either include a GFCI here or earlier in the circuit (e.g., GFCI breaker). Since the black and white are in pairs, something else is powered after this on the same circuit, so best practice is to add pigtails to the existing black & ...


1

Ever wonder how an acoustic guitar can be so loud even though it has only thin vibrating strings? It's the box. Similarly, the housing and exit duct of a fan are the culprits with a fan. The vibrations are in effect amplified by this apparatus. Even if one installs material to dampen the transfer of vibrations to it, they still get transferred quite ...


0

These may be the type of valve for your application thermostatic mixing valves for shower. They come with a diverter for switching between tub and shower, and some may be without a diverter. Since you already have valves on the tub it is not clear to me which kind would be best for your situation. EDIT I believe that you would be required to remove the ...


0

Turns out it was the bathmat (I think). I also tried pouring peroxide down the drain another day, and then bleach another day (not together with the peroxide), as suggested elsewhere. Tub was still stinking. Then I noticed the bath mat. It's not just a simple rubber one for grip, it was thicker, padded somewhat, with mesh around it. Took a whif, and the ...


0

I would start with the vent. Make sure that no wasps/hornets or birds have attempted to build a nest in it. Note I say 'attempted' because the gas being vented will either kill or drive off the pests. I found bumblebees in my vent 30' up from ground level.


1

Why would a GFI blink red Red Status Blinking = Initial self-test upon first power up Solid or blinking = Press TEST and RESET buttons to reset GFCI If GFCI will not reset OR solid or blinking red continues, replace device


0

Typically A 1/2 Switched outlet is broken in the middle of the tab between the two screws. If the one outlet is always powered, there is constant power to that outlet and the other outlet is connected to the switch leg of the light switch. If this is the case, then that outlet should already have a GFCI on it. If not, then you can replace the outlet with ...


2

I think that you should focus on the cause not the symptom. So, what causes the toilet to overflow? Is it a filling valve issue? have you checked? Is the drain partially blocked? Once you sort that then the floor should be fine.


3

Usually those shelves are mounted to the wall structure behind the tiles, most often into one or two studs. You need to find the studs and then drill into them for proper support. While you should get the contractor back to sort poor work, I would hesitate as they may not know any better... Often those shelves are mounted first then the tiles are cut to ...


3

I cannot imagine how any "glue" that would hold those. But then again, you may want to inquire your local big box or hardware store and ask. Gluing right directly to polished to polished ceramic / porcelain tiles doesn't seem feasible as a practice. I would imagine if that there WAS a way to glue these like this, the surface to surface would have to be ...


0

Instead of drilling through the tiles to hang the cabinet, you could also drill through the grout lines only. Obviously, you will need a small enough drill and screws to not damage the tiles, and depending on how the cabinet mounts, it may not allow you to place screws in the right location. But the grout would be easier to repair than tile (though it might ...


0

I would get some foam tape labelled "permanent" and use that. The stuff holds impressively well, and it'll do the job if installed properly. I've seen hundreds of towel and soap dispensers in commercial buildings installed this way for years. When you're done with the cabinet you'll be able to slide a metal blade behind the cabinet and slice the foam, then ...


3

In a word no. First issue is you are renting. The owner has specified no holes in the tile. There is no guarantee the adhesive, if it held won't damage the tile when the cabinet is removed. I would suggest getting some sort of a base cabinet, perhaps a bookcase size piece and mount the mirror cabinet to the top .


4

Several people have mentioned "silicone caulk" - there is a little more that can be added to that recommendation that can make a major difference. Silicone rubbers designed for "wet area use" typically have a 20+ year lifetime, retain their flexibility and bond well to many surfaces. For bathroom use or anywhere that cosmetic appearance matters, use an SR (...


2

At least they used chrome, if the tube went into the drain there could be reverse migration if the drain was slow the separation is a requirement for food processing chillers to prevent back flow. This is probably a safety for a boiler or the piping.


3

Honestly, this is something you'll deal with periodically anywhere you have a caulked joint. I caulked my son's bathroom about 18 months ago and some of the caulk is starting to break down from regular use. You can use a basic latex caulk, but they just don't last as long. A couple of things to consider Pure silicone. It's a MAJOR pain to remove, smells ...


1

Is it a crack or a seam where the tub base joined to the side-walls? If it's the latter, most likely there is a 'lip' attached to the tub wall, extending up about a 1/2' from tub acting as a 'dam', designed to keep water, running down the shower walls, from seeping behind it. You might be in better shape than you think


21

I'm not sure where some of those cracks came from, but it doesn't look like anything a good quality bathroom caulk won't fix. Here is the big secret to caulking anything in the bathroom: Clean those surfaces as good as you possibly can. Like cleaner than you've ever cleaned anything in a bathroom. After its super clean, clean it again with alcohol to ...


5

You can fix this, potentially fairly, easily. Get some Silicone caulk from your choice of hardware store. Then read the directions which will probably say something like clean the area to be applied and apply a bead of caulk. Here is the potentially part: depending on how long the crack has been there and what material was used there could be water damage/...


3

What you have purchased is a new shower valve that also comes with the "trim", a shower head and a tub spout. Together, this is all commonly sold as a kit. These are made for installing a new shower or a "down to the studs" remodel where you are going to cut the plumbing in the wall to remove the old shower valve and install a new one. If this is what you ...


2

When you turn that style of Moen control, it mixes hot water with cold to adjust the temperature; but first you need to pull out to get the water to flow...


2

I believe you are talking about the p trap or U bend. The old metal drain lines do wear out because of acids in food, I know many years back I bought a place that looked good but the chrome plating was all that was left on some of the pipe it developed a small leak when I went to pull it it crumbled like an eggshell. Most of the modern drain cleaners won’t ...


0

1/4" per foot is recommended--so 1.5" drop across the six foot run. Steeper than than can cause issues-- the water drains too fast and the poo dries out and eventually the pipe is full of hardened poo. Yes, the sink can tie into the same drain. Be sure to use a trap! Personally, I would make the sink connection to the drain as close as possible to the ...


0

What kind of studs are you planning in that common wall where the intended sloping horizontal pipe will be placed? If this is a typical wall with 2x4 studs (nominal 1.5 b 3.5 inch dimension) then there is no feasible way to run a 3.5" diameter pipe horizontal through the wall. There are several ways this situation is handled: Use of a wider studs in the ...


0

I'm not trying to be funny with this, but it sort of is: If it's done here, I'm certain yours will be ok, as long as your local codes allow it.


1

That 6’ run cannot be horizontal - it needs to slope, so either the wall end has to drop or the toilet end needs to be higher. Your locality will specify the amount of slope in the regulations, however, some I have seen have a drop of about 6” across that distance. If the slope is too shallow, then things get stuck...


0

Fresh air needs a way in. The extractor does just half of the job: pumping moist air out. However, there must be a way for fresh air to come in to replace what gets pumped out. That's because the fan is not a vacuum pump, so it can't work against a sizeable pressure gradient. Given the flow that the fan is supposed to produce, that fresh air inlet needs to ...


1

It looks like mold / mildew yes it can be killed with a bleach & water solution or a hydrogen peroxide and water mixture. Is it the “bad stuff” only testing will reveal that but to tell the truth that doesn’t look that bad. But killing it and keeping the area dry, making sure the vent fan is on when using the shower / bath will help get the moisture out ...


0

Big problem with enclosed showers is drying them out so mold doesn’t grow. But they certainly exist. Sounds like your problem is proper ventalation. Which would be worse with a closed in shower. Fans don’t work well in high humidity air typically.


1

Showers don't have to be open. I've seen and worked on many that had walls to the ceiling. I had a customer who had an open shower and inquired about closing it in because they had a breathing problem and wanted to breathe the steam. I enclosed it by adding two pieces of plexiglass mounted on top of the rails for the shower door and wall up to the ceiling.


0

Maybe try heating the room. The condensation happens on the walls because they are a cool surface (and there is a bunch) Warmer room air will mean the air has more capacity for water but right now this is only happening in the air. The cold walls are acting like a cold glass of water on a hot humid day. Letting cool air in from the window may actually ...


0

In general, that center post will unscrew from the center, but that won't help remove the drain. The drain screws in just like the new one in your picture. Removing the center bar will allow you to get a drain removal tool in there. Before trying anything, realize that drains that old usually do not come out in one piece. The cross bar inside the drain ...


1

Looks like a clogged aerator. Unscrew it and flush it out with water. Use a pliers and wrap the aerator in a cloth as to not scratch the finish.


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