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1

I can't tell for sure based on the picture, but it looks to me like you have the roof deck on the left, and a knee wall on the right that separates an already finished portion of the attic from the area pictured, like this: and you are considering utilizing one of the areas labeled Attic 1 as the closet. If that is correct, you may already have a slight ...


1

You cannot achieve R38 in only 5 1/2 inches. One of the highest rated insulations is spray foam, and it is around R6 per inch, which would require 6 3/8 inches at least. If you did fur out the rafters with 2x2s (1.5 x 1.5) then you would have 7 inches total to use and could install 1/2 inch baffles and have closed cell spray foam installed. It would be ...


0

You can use something like a Larsen truss (non-structural) to make more space for insulation. Basically attach thin plywood to the existing rafter / truss members and attach a 2x2 to hold the face of the insulation / drywall at the appropriate spacing below the roof sheathing.


4

That duct is not done properly notice how the duct is collapsed. Webbing can be used I have used plumbers tape (a metal strip with holes) at the first support after a rise I will screw a saddle of scrap ductwork to keep the duct from collapsing. I have used webbing but always think it will separate over time I usually melt the holes to reduce the chance of ...


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If you have a shower mixer that lets through it is possible for mains pressure cold water to backflow through the mixer and into the hot water tank system.


1

I would look into buying a low cost "garden shed" of the type that you assemble yourself and assemble it in your attic-like space. Not sure where in the world you are, but if you are in North America, you can go to someplace like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. and look at them. It would cost you more, but you could easily disassemble it and move it (or sell it) if ...


1

One possible solution maybe to construct walls from 2" thick, R-10, foam insulation board. You might be able to make it rigid enough using 3" drywall screws and duct tape. (and perhaps Gorilla glue(?)). If this proves not to be strong enough, you can use some cheap strip furring to add strength. R-10 will certainly not be sufficient if your low outside ...


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Your best bet is to build a small "room" out of plaster board in the space, and heat just that space. If you build a 10x10 room that is 7'6 high, you will probably find that 1500W continuously will make it uncomfortable warm. (Don't get rid of the radiator though - you will want it to warm up the room when you get started.) If you can put some insulation ...


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