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2x6 joists at the span that you are talking about (16' and 18') are not strong enough to support a floor as a living space. With a span like that the timber size that you sister in would have to be at least 2x10's. Look this up in a joist span table (available in numerous places on the web) if you do not believe me. Trying to install cross bracing on the ...


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This is "Ridge board and rafters": These are roof Trusses: From your pictures, you clearly have ridge boards with rafters coming off of them. The reason trusses shouldn't hold the weight of flooring or heavy boxes is because they are typically made from relatively small boards (2x4's in some cases) and the bottom board is already carrying a significant ...


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It defiantly can be converted but you should be asking your self if it worth the investment. Maybe an extension / conservatory could cost in the same region but you will have much more real space. It seems that these truss roofs could be quite difficulult to walk around in with all the cross members. I think you could remove the cross members if you go to ...


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It is definitely possible. My uncle has had this done in his loft. They had to reinforce the trusses with large pieces of wood, but they were single rather than double cantilever so it was easier. Perhaps it's worth getting some quotes from professionals or hiring an advisor, as they'll be able to give you an idea of what would be involved and the ...


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In the US, you can find rigid insulation panels of polyisocyanurate foam and polstyrene foam These can be cut to fit tightly between studs or rafters, can be flush with the face of the wood and are thick enough to be self supporting. They are usually sealed to the wood using broad tape, such as aluminum. They are not cheap and not very strong if hit, but ...


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I'd go with fibreglass insulation and 1/4 inch drywall or thin plywood. Just don't throw anything at it, or you'll poke a hole in it. Also, leave a gap at the top and bottom, and the air pressure issue is irrelevant. Another, cheap options is to simply staple up cloth. It's not like this space is ever going to be a finished entertaining area, so you don'...


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Yes. Very possible. It has to be engineered though. We have plans to do just this. The drawings and engineering cost around $1000. I wouldn't try it unless an engineer has looked at it, drawn a plan and signed off on it. For us we are going over a 3 car garage and the roof pitch is 12-12. So a lot of space there. The plan is to remove the drywall ceiling ...


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Windows need framing around them, to support the hole-in-the-wall the window represents. This means that support framing (IF you have wooden framing) will be immediately to the left, right and above the window, within the first several inches. Small test nailings can be done in the area in question, just deep enough to prove wood-or-not. Drillings with ...


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One old technique that might work here is the “let in ribbon” or “cut in ribband”. This traditional method was used in “balloon framing”. Before the wide adaptation of “platform framing” with the advent of air conditioning - there was no top plate to rest your joist on. This still meets code if done properly: R502.6 Bearing. The ends of each joist beam or ...


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There are many steel building hardware options. Simple joist hangers would do if you don't mind adding studs on the other side of each joist. I'd probably sister 2x10 or other suitable joists and use double hangers. One other option might be to bolt a ledger to the wall under the joists, giving them bearing. You'd have to box it out or fur out the entire ...


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I also would discourage this idea. The railing is there for reason; to keep people from falling through the hole. No mater how you build your trap door you are always going to have a hole in the floor that someone could fall through.


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From this picture it hardly looks like the stairs "cuts the room in half". In fact it looks like the stairs hug all the way to one side of the room. I would strongly discourage you from proceeding with the idea that you propose. If the horizontal trap door were closed in the event of a fire it may very well be just that...a trap the prevents you from ...


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You say you don’t like answers that start with, “...the Code says...”, but I say, the Code says, “Habitable rooms, hallways and basements containing habitable spaces shall have a ceiling height of 7’ min. (ICC R305) Also, it says, “ For rooms with sloped ceilings, the required floor area of the room shall have a ceiling height of not less than 5’ and not ...


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The Code (ICC Table R301.5) an attic floor or a sleeping room floor shall support a minimum of 30 lbs. per square foot plus all dead loads (carpet, floor sheathing, joists, ceiling finish below, etc. ) I’d estimate your total load at about 12 lbs. per square foot dead load plus 30 lbs. per square foot live load for a total load of 42 lbs. per square foot. ...


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I suspect where they are screwed together, they overlap and there's a load bearing wall beneath. Is that correct? You say the span of the joists is "probably 6 feet" but that the critical measurement. If they're really only 6' long, 2x6's at 16" on center are fine, in fact they'll go a bit further under normal conditions. If they are older ...


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Code requires a Live Load of 40 lbs. per square foot plus a Dead Load (flooring, joists, insulation, etc.) of 15 psf (probably) for a total load of 55 psf. #3 spruce/ fir (fb = 1200 psi & fv = 95 psi) spanning 14’ will support about 40 psf at 16” oc. #2 (fb = 1750 psi & fv = 120 psi) will support about 60 psf. The main difference between #2 ...


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You'd need to double-check, but does the 270mm regulation apply to existing houses as well? Otherwise, I've seen plenty of lofts cross battened with 150mm or 175mm deep timbers and boarded on top. Not sure where you want the air gap, condensation shouldn't be a problem here unless you plan on not heating the office... An alternative is to go for a warm roof ...


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Sistering a 2x8 joist to your existing 2x6 joists at 16" oc will work. However, I'd use a No. 1 grade rather than No. 2 & better. The Code requires a minimum of 40 lbs. per square foot live load and I'd assume about 15lbs. Per square foot dead load for a total design load of 55 lbs. per square foot. The 2x8 plus the 2x6 with No. 1 grade joists will ...


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Yes, if you don't have a way for the heat to escape rapidly. Radiant Barriers aren't insulation. So, if the reflected heat can't get away quickly, like in a wall, the Radiant Barrier won't do anything of benefit in your location since you would want it facing the exterior to repel heat. It really would only be useful if it were installed as your exterior ...


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The roof itself doesn't matter. It is the boards on the bottom (truss chords) or ceiling joists that will carry the weight of whatever you are storing. If it is a few boxes of christmas ornaments that is one thing, but if you try to store your bowling ball collection up there and build a weight room then you will be in trouble. Any normal floor is built on ...


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