Hot answers tagged

23

No, it's not ok. For one thing, by the time the city inspector looks at the fully framed building, it will be a little too late to fix it. Secondly, the builder's attitude seems very questionable. Either his framing crew or the concrete sub messed up. At the very least their job is not done in a workmanlike manner. They shouldn't wait and hope things 'slip' ...


20

Concrete is a mix of large aggregate, small aggregate, and cement (a 4:2:1 ratio is a good approximation - though designed mixes will be more calculated than that). The size of the large aggregate isn't particularly important, unless you are working in very tight spaces or around reinforcement, in which case you want suitably small aggregate. In this case ...


18

Cut a 1"x 4" board just long enough to fit between the wall on the right and garage door on the left. Attach each end with 2 1/2" screws into the studs of said wall and door frame. Screw hook, ( or hooks ) into the board. Other wise like i said in the comments, take it to the store to size and anchor, i have seen ones big enough for that size hook. Be ...


15

Any type of threaded screw will eventually pull out. I'd think about using some bolt and cap nuts. You'd have to drill right through the door and can probably use the same holes on one side. I'd think about adding a few washers on each side for a little extra strength.


14

This is something that you have minimal control over. Most electrical runs going horizontally are about 2 feet off the floor or very close to the ceiling. There are lots of reasons for this but one of the obvious ones is it limits the areas of concerns when drilling. Also for horizontal runs there should be a little slack where an anchor would just push ...


14

OK, the yellow anchors do not go into the studs. They can be used in drywall, brick, masonry, etc when the proper size hole is drilled. Those big threaded anchors are for drywall. They have a sharp point and you screw them into the wall with a Phillips screwdriver and tighten them up so they indent a little into the drywall. Then one of your smaller silver ...


14

This appears to be well suited to a rivnut installation. The threaded insert is placed in a hole sized appropriately to the insert, the tool is used to compress the portion inside the door and the threads remain for the bolt to engage. Rivnuts are best used on thin sheet material. Rivnut tools can be quite expensive, but those are primarily for production ...


12

OK this is easy. The answer is NO. The construction has issues: There are no bolts for the sill plates. 2.The sill plates should be spaced on the slab so that wall plus exterior finish meets slab. It looks like this house is getting brick or thick stone given the 3 inches or so from the edge. I am not sure about your situation. You are having a ...


10

With regard to using wood posts in concrete: Note that any water that drains down the side of the wood post will drain through to the subsoil. The post should be in a collar, not a cup... (Feel free to integrate into the answer of @sch )


10

Aside from not using hammer mode, as suggested in the comments, I will report that I have had HIGHLY variable results with Tapcon's in old poured concrete - I don't recall what they claim to work in, but I begin to suspect that concrete block or green (not yet fully cured) poured concrete is more their cup of tea, or perhaps "concrete made only with "soft" ...


10

All the Tapcons, Conserts, or other brand of concrete screws I have driven over the years, I have never, while following the directions driven a concrete screw no deeper into any concrete that has been well aged over an 1 1/4" in. The specs that I seen for the most part say the screw is rated to go in between 3/4" to 1" max for the rated hold. To go in ...


9

No, I would not recommend nailing through carpet. Whether or not you prefer to, cutting the carpet and pad and removing them (under the wall) is the only right way to do this job. Baseboards on top of carpet will look like baseboards on top of carpet. If that's not how the rest of the baseboards are done, they will indeed look "off;" especially in the ...


9

I agree with the answer about using a stud finder with a voltage sensor. Also, bear in mind that while the horizontal wire runs are typically close to the floor or the ceiling, there are also cables running up studs, and they aren't necessarily stapled directly to the stud itself, either. Consider the NM cable standoffs (or "stack staples") in the pictures ...


8

You appear to have 5 anchors and 3 screws. I hope this isn't much of a rack, or that you're willing to go buy some screws. Lag Bolts. The things you are referring to as drywall screws appear to be screw-in drywall anchors, which then take a normal screw in the center of the anchor. They hold fairly well for a drywall anchor, but unless it's a very small, ...


7

Use 1/4" diameter Tapcons (the 3/16" screws are worthless). Drill the hole with a 3/16" masonry drill bit with a hammer drill, one inch farther than the fastener is long, pulling the bit out of the hole several times as you go to clear the spoils, being careful not to ream the sides as you do. Drive the screw with an impact gun, and stop half a second after ...


7

These don't come out easily, sometimes they can be pushed back into the wall and dissappear, this is often the case if the person installing it was thinking ahead and drilled the hole deeper than needed as an end-of-life plan. Else you need to drive the shaft back in a bit to release the wedge and then pull on the sleeve part, locking pliers are useful ...


7

Since security could be a concern, I'd suggest a plate on the outside with square holes punched, or round holes drilled to accept carriage bolts that go all the way through the door and nuts on the inside. This will prevent anyone from being able to remove bolts from the outside. If you drill a clearance hole through the plate, you can use a file to square ...


6

It is not good practice to bury wood in concrete as you depict. Best to use metal anchored in the concrete and attach the wood to the metal. Your result will be inevitable rot and failure, probably not before the kids outgrow it but maybe. Something like this (http://milspecanchors.com/shop/accessories/6x6-post-anchor-heavy-duty-cast-aluminum-structural-...


6

Any of the pipe hangers available at your local big-box home improvement store are designed to support a full pipe. They would be just decorations if they didn't... Pick a type that seems simplest to you to use, get appropriate fasteners (you're attaching this to concrete, a simple screw or nail isn't going to do the trick), ensure you've got the proper 1/4&...


5

Key racks tend to be fairly light, so you shouldn't have any problems using only drywall anchors.


5

I do a lot of work in remodel aplications. As for the strength of 1/2" and 5/8 sheetrock it is quite strong. I have been in multiple situations where I had 2 options walk or crawl on belly directly on the sheet rock or cut and remove the sheetrock from underneath to access the area I needed to get to. I weigh 165 lbs and can verify that both 1/2" and 5/8" ...


5

Reducing the amount of Portland Cement in the concrete will reduce its strength. That is, adding rocks to an already-blended mixture of concrete will reduce its strength over the same mix without the rocks. If this weren't true, they would just add rock to the original mix, since rocks are way cheaper than Portland Cement. The other issue, as John ...


5

Unfortunately you can't be 100% certain but you can dramatically reduce your risk. Checking local rules and practices for installing cables should be your first line of defense. For example in the UK we have "safe zones" where wires are normally run http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Safe_zones_for_electric_cables . However it is not a guarantee, ...


5

It’s based on the 1) angle of repose, and 2) weight of soil, and 3) length of deadman. 7-8kn equals about 1500 - 1,800 lbs. If the angle of repose is about 45 degrees and your soil weighs about 80 lbs. per cubic foot, then you’ll need about 2,000 lbs. (safety factor) resisting. Therefore, you need to bury your deadman about 3’ deep if the deadman is 3’ ...


4

Suitablilty of fasteners for supporting bracketry in concrete depends mostly on the weight. light duty 0-10lbs: Screws with concrete threads, no anchors needed (EG Tapcon and Spax) medium duty: 10-50lbs: anchors of plastic or lead, heavy duty: 50+ : sleeve and wedge anchors There are overlaps between light and medium duty , based on screw size and ...


4

You could also try to get a board to go between the joists if you can't hit them directly. The holding strength of drywall isn't much in this direction. Really if you look at drywall it's about 2 pieces of paper with a little bit of "stuff" in between. If you have the vertical space you could push a piece of wood through a hole near one of the anchors or ...


4

Reline your jamb with another material that you can screw into. The pressure you will subject the door frame to is really needing something screwed into it. To just use pressure has the strong possibility of deforming or worse, cracking your jamb, depends on where the shims are placed behind the jamb, but you cant see them, unless you take it apart, not a ...


4

Assuming that you have masonry walls, you need masonry drill bits and masonry anchors, which are somewhat different than the molly anchors you find for use with hanging on plaster. Any masonry anchor style should do - as long as you size it appropriately for the item to be hung.


4

You'll need a masonry bit and hammer drill to get a hole in brick. However it may be easier to screw the hooks to a piece of wood and mount the wood to the wall. With a nice routed edge on the wood that can look really nice. To mount the wood you can use normal masonry anchors.


4

It depends on the type of anchor and the length of the screw, but I think you may have another problem. Most drywall anchors rely on the screw to expand the anchor and secure it into the drywall. In these cases, if the screw is not into the anchor to an adequate depth, the anchor will not have sufficient purchase in the sheetrock. With this said, however, ...


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