While I have moved (still in hot Florida) I now have a better situation to actually test this. I put an IoTaWatt on my power, so I have minute by minute power draw on the A/C, as well as I can computer control my thermostat.
I have been running variations of two situations:
1) A steady 74F thermostat setting all day, and
2) A cold-soak setting that ...
In addition to coils, I sprayed mine clean with water, take the cooling unit out of its housing so you can get at the area where water pools on the bottom of the unit. After a few years, this area tends to fill with massive quantities of mold. I sprayed mine out in the tub. You might do better taking the thing outside and using a hose. It is very important ...
Yes, it would work. AC is a very simple concept. Take heat from one spot and put it somewhere else. if the somewhere else is another room, voila. this is actually what we end up doing a lot in server rooms, albeit with a way more expensiver unit "designed for it" but it is literally going to put the exact btu's removed from the cooled side into the heated ...
I see you have three problems, which you reasonably note may be related:
Too much heat on the oven side
Too little heat on the proofing side
Too little humidity on the proofing side, due to heating the air
While a heat pump will certainly solve your problem, I claim that it might actually be overkill. You see, a heat pump is ...
You could try two small portable units in each direction, ideally each of them half of what you need, that way you will have two thermostats controlling the temperature in each room. So one unit would provide a fraction of the heating and cooling and is uncontrolled and less than what you need and the other unit the top up and is controlled by thermostats
Thinking of using an AC system similar to Rimworld pc game?
It is not going to work, efficiently.
You are using R22 or R123a gas as a heating fluid?
Thouse systems operating at an ambient temperatures around 45-55 C?
And you wont be getting a thermal shut-off if you reached your desired heating temprature.
So you wont be having any cooling nor ...
Yes, this would work, but I caution you to consider that the hot side of the A/C could produce airborne water droplets full of bacteria.
The typical through-window or through-wall air conditioner condenses water on the cool side and channels this water to a condensate tray on the hot side. The condenser fan typically has fan blades joined by an outer ring ...
The idea is good and pretty much possible.
Constructing it from off-the-shelf parts can be only a little tricky.
First, I am yet to see an AC unit capable of humidifying a room (drying is trivial and will happen by itself, but is not what you need).
The temperature controls are not necessarily on the cool side. Where I live, AC units are used more for ...
A split A/C would avoid big openings in the wall (only a small hole for a pipe/tube is needed), is not expensive and would allow to freely position the elements. And can be extended by a 2nd or 3rd unit if needed resp. for redundancy.
I think this is a clever idea, and doable with a pretty simple hack. If you locate an ordinary hardwired thermostat in the proofer room, and tie the heating terminals on the thermostat to the cooling terminals on the air conditioner, you should get what you're looking for.
That will limit your options to units with terminals for an external thermostat.
This isn't quite an "answer" but too long for a comment.
Very interesting and energy efficient idea, very creative!
OK, here goes my solution and I would welcome others (esp. the "big 3") to contribute and hopefully improve this suggestion. This would definitely be a "one off" approach.
The bottom line parts are:
1) A thermostat (tstat) in the ...
I'm not an expert to tell you whether this is actually a good idea, but an AC unit used for heating is called a heat pump. There are two differences between "a heat pump" and "an air conditioner":
Heat pumps contain a reversing valve which reverses the operation so that what would usually be the cold side gets hot and the hot side cools instead.
This would work fine, go for it! The efficiency will come from the differences in temperatures between the heating and cooling elements and the room temperatures, the greater the difference the greater the efficiently (or effectiveness). An HVAC (Heating Ventilation, Air Conditioning) person or store will be able to help you with the calculations, even if ...
It sounds like a good plan. but you're right that the controls will be regulating the heat in the wrong room.
If you can find a unit that takes an external (to the unit) dumb thermostat, a thermostat could be positioned in the proofer room and used to command heat from the AC.
Else you're going to need to have the air conditioner modified to meet your ...
Spray foam may be hazardous to the health if the chemical reactions are not finished due to wrong application, dry air, too thick layer. And of course, a good protection is needed during the spraying work.
A ventilated air layer is sometimes part of insulation constructions in order to get rid of moisture, depending on the location of the layer, location of ...
You may be moving too much air with your blower fan.
A ton of AC should have 400 cfm blowing, so the fan speed depends on the size of the cooling unit. It seems counter intuitive, but think of the dwell/contact time of the air on the cooling coils. More contact means better heat exchange, better dehumidified air. Drier air feels cooler.
If you use anything Use foam, fiberglass gets its R value in the volume.
The block wall actually has an R value, I think when I poured my shop walls there was foam on outside and inside and I think the wall was rated at R 50. Since you have a solid wall I might just have an air space. As 1” of foam is expensive for the R value and the air space is actually ...