8

Take it to a shop that either does hydrostatic testing, or has an arrangement with a place that does. It will cost far less than $100, barring a major ripoff. Any place that deals in compressed gasses (welding supply or diving supply) needs to do this on a regular basis (5 years per tank), as do fire extinguisher service shops (which might actually be the ...


5

Call a service technician. Your system probably has a leak, and is low on refrigerant. The system iced up due to low refrigerant. Then as more refrigerant escaped, the system lost the ability to cool.


4

There are 2 common types of connectors. Unless your female quick disconnect is a universal one, and you will need to get the other type of connector. This is assuming that you are pulling back on the sleeve on the female while pushing the male into the connector. The automotive type has a wide band close to the end of the male and the standard or generic is ...


4

Actually, it is a fielder's choice. Either way, all you have to do is make up a cord with #10 wire that is rated for 30 amps with a male plug on one and a female plug on the other to transition between the different plugs. Good luck and stay safe!


3

Your tool and your compressor both have (or should have, but they probably do) ratings in "Standard Cubic Feet Per Minute" (SCFM) possibly stated just as CFM. The compressor SCFM needs to be equal to or greater than that of the tool to operate the tool continuously. Small "homeowner-grade" compressors are often not rated for continuous operation at all (...


3

There is a great video on YouTube by "The Build Show" about various PEX and push to connect fittings. They pump them up until they burst. They burst well above the stated ratings. Unfortunately I can't answer the nylon pipe question but check out the video The Build Show with Matt Risinger 14,000 PSI test I temporarily installed PEX Airlines and PEX oil ...


3

There are several other ways to test a pressure vessel. Also, a hydro is not necessarily double, it's usually 125-150% of the safety valve pop, depending on the situation. A popular method today is ultrasound. This exploits the fact that the tank usually sits at one orientation, so accumulated tank water rests in one area, and that is where corrosion ...


2

Put a 30A cord on it You should be able to remove the existing cord from the compressor and attach a 30A cord (10AWG cordage, either terminating in a 6-30 or a 14-30 with the neutral wire at the device end terminated in a way that won't short to anything, including the case) to the thing. This is no different than putting a 15A cord on a 1A clock. The ...


2

TLDR: you must follow the labeling or instructions on the motor or compressor. You can change breakers without changing wires. The rules for 240V receptacles are exactly the same as for 120V receptacles: cheater cords are out of the question. labeling and instructions on an appliance must be followed. if the breaker is 30A, only 30A receptacles can be ...


2

Automatic blowdowns This taps the bottom of the tank where water would accumulate. At intervals, it blows some air out of the tank. PSHHHHHT! This ejects most of the water and some air. This operates at time intervals, when the compressor cycles on or off, or when water is detected. Your electric bill will not like this In real world practice, ...


2

That statement means after four hours of run time. Storing air doesn't cause water accumulation. I'd drain it every few months if you only use it occasionally. The fact of the matter is that there will always be water in it, and when it rusts out you can't do much about it. Industrial compressors have air drying mechanisms upstream of the intake air, so ...


2

Pressure tanks are usually steel, steel is somewhat flexible, it stretches a bit when filled, if the tank is left full it can shorten the life of the tank, I used to have a small scuba shop and did tank inspections as required annually, with hydrostatic testing every 5 years , the recommended pressure for long term storage for all tanks was 500 psi this is ...


2

Storing a oil less compressor in just about any position will be fine but make sure to blow the water out of the tank prior to storing it.


1

Given that you are likely talking about a residential air conditioning compressor with a single phase motor, that sound would be indicative of a failed Starting Capacitor in the compressor motor, so the motor is not able to start. Many of those are hermetically sealed compressors, so the capacitor is separately mounted somewhere away from the motor itself, ...


1

I used a 90 PSI needle scaler (Ingersoll-Rand Model 125) for two weeks, four hours a day of nearly continuous scaling. This needle scaler consumes 8 SCFM. My compressor was an Ingersoll-Rand Model 30 with an 80 gallon tank, rated for 24 SCFM, with a 7.5 horsepower motor that consumes 40 amps at 230 volts. The compressor cycled on and off every few minutes ...


1

For continuous duty on the compressor end you need a rotary screw rather than a piston compressor; you've probably seen road crews towing them behind the truck. For continuous tool use what you need is a compressor which provides a higher CFM than the tool requires. (And technically an air set to inject oil into the line, because if you're stopping to ...


1

Short answer: NO Nylon doesn't compress the same way PEX does and thus needs to be compressed more so your go no-go tool won't be able to tell you if you have a good fit. Long Answer: GAWD NO! Your fears are totally unfounded, those push-to-connect fittings are far more secure than PEX crimp fittings - Porsche, Ferrari, Jaguar, Mercedes, BMW, Fiat and ...


1

Pex will work as long as you dont exceed the max PSI. Moisture build up will be the problem. All of the built up moisture could escape into your air tools.


1

At 15A, that is a 3HP motor (assuming 240V single phase here), the "6HP" is a marketing term that means WHEN the motor is slowed down by a change in the load to it's "Break Down Torque" speed, it will develop 220% of rated torque, VERY briefly, in attempting to get the motor back to speed, so 220% torque at a just slightly lower speed results in 200% HP for ...


1

As the reservoir for an air compressor holds air under pressure, the forces on the dent will be outward. If the dent is not on a seam or other metal discontinuity, and is shallow enough, little will happen. When it is pressurized the first time, if it does not "un-dent" itself, you likely have little about which to worry. Even if it does pop out, it won't go ...


1

It sounds like the relief valve is sticking. Once the head pressure is gone it should close so it can start again. I have had to replace them in the past and have been able to clean carbon deposits out of the valve on oil lubricated models, and last is to make sure no sawdust or dirt is causing the arm not to close on the outside of the switch.


1

The osha approved method would probably require depressurizing the hose prior to removing the male from the female disconnect. I do this at full pressure of 150 psi on my system all the time, I do use caution because the air shooting out the male fitting can contain rust or large dust particles. I grasp the male end in 1 hand and the female in the other, ...


1

Your friend is right. If the operating and safety pressures were the same (nominally, given tolerances), you'd likely have nuisance trips of the safety valve. Enough safety factor is built into the tank that it's not a concern to be 10 psi higher with the safety valve. In fact, the tank is probably the same one used on higher-duty models, with the pressure ...


1

I'm going to assume that this is a traditional split central air system, where there is an outdoor condenser and an indoor air handler or furnace. In these systems the only part that can typically freeze is the evaporator coil, which is within the air handler or furnace. If that's right, then cleaning debris from your condenser, while a good idea, probably ...


1

Not dangerous, but you'll eventually stop shooting nails. Chances are it's just a couple of o-rings that need replacing. Look for something like a 'cylinder rebuild kit'... should be well under 20 bucks.


1

It's relatively easy to find UV resistant compressor hose from many manufacturers. It's also important to note the "resistant" aspect of the description. Solar UV is quite destructive and I doubt any manufacturer would consider the product to be UV proof. Encasing your UV resistant hose in a UV opaque tube, conduit, enclosure would substantially reduce the ...


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