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2

You MUST attach the ground to the metal box FIRST. You can pigtail, but what you can't do is take ground to the receptacle only. The receptacle will automagically pick up ground off the metal box in certain circumstances. the box screw ear, and receptacle, have hard flush clean metal contact, with the screws bottomed out (not floating on drywall ears; no ...


2

Take the #10 AWG ground from your cable and loop it to your metal box with a 10/32 grounding screw. There should be a threaded hole for this in the box. Extend the ground outward an attach it to your outlet.


14

No, that's illegal and has always been illegal. You are confusing neutral and ground, which is understandable since they go to the same place in the main panel. However they are actually different and separate; they are tied together in the main panel and that is the only reason they're allowed on the same bus. Don't let that confuse you. The water heater ...


3

What you need is a critical-loads subpanel This is an ordinary subpanel, in which the critical-load circuits are permanently moved. (this isn't as annoying as it sounds). The ATS automatically switches its source between utility and generator. As Ed Beal notes, it's unusual to put a large load like hot water on a backup generator for a couple of reasons: ...


4

You'll need a right-angle FMC connector, an octagon knockout faceplate, and some MAC-Blocks for this It looks like your electrician threw an octagon mud ring on the square box they put in for this outlet because they didn't have a square one in the truck at the time. While a bit non-standard, this is not unmanageable, either, as KO faceplates for octagon ...


0

To make a hard-wired connection get a RACO 187, mount box with window horizontal, the 4 holes line up with receptacle mounting holes. Then the metal flex can attach to the the side of the box. You will need to a breaker lock-off in the electrical panel.


1

Your easiest bet will be a cross between 1 and 3 Your easiest and simplest bet is a cross between approach 1 and approach 3, using a subpanel with a breaker interlock between the two breakers in it to keep you from overloading the feeder by running both kilns at once. The good news is Siemens, Square-D QO, and Eaton all have fairly nice interlock kits ...


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