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Results tagged with Search options user 35141

Planning, installing and using either indoor or outdoor artificial lights.

8
votes
Generally speaking, all grounds can be bundled. You want the fixture, any metal boxes and conduit, and any switches all connected to the grounding conductor. In your case, bundle or chain them all t …
answered Jul 27 '16 by isherwood
1
vote
There may have been plans for a desk/workspace there There may have been plans for a bar or cabinetry/countertop there There may have been plans for a display shelf there There may have been plans fo …
answered Dec 16 '16 by isherwood
7
votes
It's a halogen (identified by mike65535 as a G9). You'll want to find voltage and wattage markings for compatibility. Using bulbs with too high of a wattage rating can create a fire hazard. Look for …
answered Jan 8 by isherwood
1
vote
IKEA provides a tool to help identify bulb size. The one you need is listed as a group: (E12, E14, E17 or SES) The 12 in E12, for example, means a diameter of 12mm. This is just a bit under 1/2". Car …
answered Jul 28 by isherwood
1
vote
My guess is that the C-shaped retainers at the ends of the arms rotate. You'd turn them to horizontal.
answered Nov 27 '18 by isherwood
2
votes
The construction and insulation of the socket assembly, the size and temperature rating of the wiring, the proximity and design of the shade... generally anything related to either electrical current …
answered Apr 20 '17 by isherwood
4
votes
That's not the kind of device that you'd attempt to repair. For one thing, you'd void the UL listing and assume liability for any resulting damage, injury, or death in doing so. For another, parts are …
answered Sep 26 '17 by isherwood
37
votes
A single-pole, double-throw switch would do the job. A common 3-way switch is exactly that. You'd simply connect power to the common screw, and run power out from each of the traveler screws. All th …
answered Jul 25 '16 by isherwood
1
vote
There have been different conventions for switch loops over the years, depending on local codes and installer preference: Send the black to the switch, since it's an extension of the hot from the li …
answered Apr 30 '17 by isherwood
1
vote
I'm not sure whether we can find any charts for this, since it's very much a subjective thing. I can tell you about my experience... My back yard is similar, but maybe a bit larger. It's probably 10 …
answered Apr 26 '17 by isherwood
5
votes
No. If a ground wire is present, it has an intended function. Pigtail the lamp and box wires together with the grounding conductor in the cable.
answered Jul 26 '17 by isherwood
1
vote
There's really no reason that you couldn't. It won't be UL listed, of course, but folks have been cobbling their own lighting for decades. Use common sense with regard to connections, insulation, and …
answered Sep 16 '16 by isherwood
2
votes
The cloth/paper wrappers are part of the insulation. Normally you'd remove them when you strip the wire. They're not intended to be electrically connected as the mesh sheath on a coaxial cable might. …
answered Oct 18 '17 by isherwood
1
vote
It's not odd that a white connects to the blacks. That's the feed for a switch loop. The black that's in the cable with that white is probably the fixture's hot supply. Once you have that identified i …
answered Nov 25 '16 by isherwood
3
votes
The best way to do this is to get yourself a pair of short "pigtail" leads and nut them together with the two existing grounds. Connect one pigtail to the box and the other to your fixture. Be sure to …
answered Sep 22 '16 by isherwood

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