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Concrete is composed of cement, aggregate (including crushed rock and sand) and water. In homes, it's frequently seen in the foundation, driveway, sidewalk, patio, and stone walls. Note that bricks use mortar in the joints, not concrete.

4
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hard work, making it look worse than before you started. If you're just patching, make sure to clean out the divot in the concrete to get the sides clean and vertical, if not a little past vertical …
answered Jul 9 '11 by BMitch
11
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Many vendors do recommend pouring the concrete in dry, but then they advise to pour a specific amount of water on top to immediately set, not to allow rain and ground moisture to cure the concrete … . This lets you skip mixing in the wheelbarrow or bucket and then shoveling the wet concrete in with a lot more cleanup of the tools required. For strength, the latter method of mixing first and pouring …
answered Mar 30 '16 by BMitch
20
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Like Greebo says, you want to get back down to the concrete, but I'd suggest that more to have a flat surface to build on top of. To make the job go faster, you can use a power tool. Several would …
answered Sep 8 '12 by BMitch
3
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larger size, particularly if they are fairly deep and the concrete is very dense, then I'd rent a higher end corded power tool. …
answered May 22 '12 by BMitch
4
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Concrete is porous, regardless of whether it's new or old. If you replaced it with a new floor, you could have a drain installed around the perimeter to stop most of the moisture infiltration. The … problem, you should ensure that the yard is properly graded away from your property on all sides so that any moisture in the ground goes somewhere other than against the concrete foundation. This, combined with your work on the gutters, could be enough to make the moisture levels tolerable. …
answered Oct 5 '11 by BMitch
2
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I'd suggest a french drain around the sides of the garage. This requires that you have somewhere to output the drain, and it also involves a lot of digging. But it will work much better than waterpr …
answered Jun 28 '11 by BMitch
8
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Bolts going into a slieve like RedGrittyBrick suggested is the best answer for appearance and strength. Another option for speed and simplicity are Tapcon screws: No affiliation, and no direct expe …
answered Nov 7 '13 by BMitch
3
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The best pry bar model that I know of for lifting concrete slabs is "big" (as in, the bigger, the better). Use a block of wood or something else that's large, to distribute the weight on the ground …
answered Jun 5 '12 by BMitch
1
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wall. It's also important that you pay attention to the pressure and the distance from the surface so that you just barely flake off the paint without damaging the concrete below. Then, you'll want …
answered Nov 19 '12 by BMitch