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Results tagged with Search options user 18078

A contact device installed at the outlet for the connection of an attachment plug.

1
vote
be able to check from the "hot" (small) blade on the "dead" receptacle to the "neutral" (wide) blade on the working receptacle to check that possibility. The "switches" are the breakers, at the …
answered Oct 28 '14 by Ecnerwal
1
vote
Cheaper than usual GFCI (bargain-builder-brand) failed in 5 years rather than the usual 10-or-so. If the outlets are not themselves GFCIs, look for a non-working GFCI outlet or tripped blank-face GFCI …
answered Nov 19 '16 by Ecnerwal
0
votes
Under current/recent NEC rules I believe the grounding pigtail is required, so that the outlet will still be grounded even if it's not screwed to the box [or because the ground pigtail is regarded as …
answered Apr 25 by Ecnerwal
3
votes
Plug it into a circuit that's rated for the power it draws. Lacking details on the device, its ratings, and what the circuit you are plugging it into is rated at (or other things that are using power …
answered Mar 1 '15 by Ecnerwal
2
votes
You should wire in a sub-panel at/near the "guest kitchen" (current terminus of the 4Ga wire.) That sub-panel would be where you move the present 30A breaker to, for the outlet feeding the stove (on …
answered Jul 7 '17 by Ecnerwal
3
votes
New box (either add, or replace smaller with larger), pair of duplex, 4 outlets. Sure, you want not to do that, but it works, and always has worked. If you can handle it being 15 amp rather than 20 …
answered Mar 23 '15 by Ecnerwal
6
votes
terminal in question is electrically connected to the ground pin of the receptacle side of the device. While it is true that this will not always result in a ground, and may (I haven't got time to sift …
answered Dec 13 '13 by Ecnerwal
7
votes
You, or your house inspector, would want to investigate if the "modern wiring" makes it all the way to the outlet boxes (in which case a simple replacement will get you grounded 3-prong outlets) or if …
answered Aug 4 '15 by Ecnerwal
1
vote
Trying to find the power supply and connector pre-made to fit a weird old lamp connector is a needle-in-haystack problem, and not likely to be one with a satisfying result. But there's no need to appr …
answered Mar 1 '14 by Ecnerwal
1
vote
next outlet on the other will be unaffected by disconnecting the receptacle from the short wire. Being aware of the possibility that the current outlets are split via a Multi Wire Branch Circuit (MWBC …
answered Jun 22 '16 by Ecnerwal
2
votes
Other than the fact that you already have a coffee maker, many/most coffee makers with timer/clock arrangements will shut themselves off after an hour or so (whether started by timer or started by han …
answered May 13 '15 by Ecnerwal
1
vote
Given that the vacuum runs with the light off, and that the light turns on and off as you move the vacuum plug in the receptacle part of this outlet, I don't think there's an external loose …
answered Jul 18 '16 by Ecnerwal
1
vote
If you have power at the breaker, and no power at the room then you have a bad connection somewhere in between. Time to start tracing wires and opening up junction boxes and outlets to check connectio …
answered Mar 1 '15 by Ecnerwal
9
votes
come to (I suspect) the wrong conclusion about: Cap the red (or black) wire and connect only the black (or red) wire to the old outlet. Plug something into one receptacle, and see if has power. Then …
answered Sep 1 '14 by Ecnerwal
1
vote
Step one - determine (or tell us) if these are all one circuit (and are there garage lights other than the opener and your bench lights, and are those on the same circuit as any/all the outlets, or no …
answered Mar 10 '15 by Ecnerwal

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