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A tool used for creating holes in surfaces, such as for mounting objects on walls.

1
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Forstner bits (as mentioned by @keshlam) have much less of a protruding point, and would do an adequate job of drilling a 1/2" hole without poking though the remaining 1/4" If you pick them up cheapl …
answered Dec 1 '14 by Ecnerwal
3
votes
Badly worn brushes or worn/tired/broken brush springs will do this. They may be easy or hard to access, depending on the designer.
answered Jul 6 '15 by Ecnerwal
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It doesn't "exactly" mean anything (other that "it's a marketing term meaning we'd like to charge you more for this one.") It MAY mean real metal bearings that can be replaced, as opposed to using th …
answered Dec 1 '17 by Ecnerwal
3
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chips) when you get deep you could probably get it done. "Extended-Reach Drill Bits" A more extensive search might find a longer one. Buy them by the dozen, you probably will break some and they are … usually cheaper that way. A different metalworking supplier website has 6" and 12" OAL listed (under "aircraft drills" which the other site calls "Short-Flute Extended-Reach Drill Bits") but only 7/8" flutes, which would be a lot more pecking to get the chips out. …
answered Feb 1 '16 by Ecnerwal
1
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Might be worn out brushes, which should be a $5 fix, but the actual price will depend on the specific drill and parts suppliers - as will how easy or difficult it is. Can be a 2-minute job (nice …
answered May 19 by Ecnerwal
2
votes
Here's a/the bosch version - no idea if it fits your particular version of bosch 18V battery, which come in many incompatible versions, but it's the only one I can find. Just making an "answer" to g …
answered Jun 25 '15 by Ecnerwal
6
votes
Cordless drill "handed down from your father" - odds are the battery is toast. They don't last forever. At some point a whole new cordless drill makes more sense than pricy batteries for an older … drill. Not knowing what yours is or when it's from, I can't say for sure. My last one I replaced the original two batteries with two new batteries when they crapped out, and when those were toast it was …
answered Jun 2 '17 by Ecnerwal
3
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Some cowboy it and hope they don't hit anything. Others cut enough holes in the drywall (and/or floor, if carpeted) to see what they are doing. If using a camera system, those can be pretty small h …
answered Apr 4 '15 by Ecnerwal
2
votes
Like any wiring, you need to learn to put it in the walls/ceiling if you don't want to see it. This generally involves drilling holes in the wall/ceiling at minimum, and may also involve some larger …
answered Jun 16 '17 by Ecnerwal
1
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a drill to correct holes in metal. I generally lubricate them with oil. Don't waste a diamond bit on this (diamond, when grinding steel, unless very carefully controlled often just gets destroyed - tungsten carbide will be more economical and work better in nearly all cases.) …
answered Oct 9 '14 by Ecnerwal
0
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Assuming you are talking about small-diamter bar, which seems likely as you are concerned about bending it, I would suggest a long (12-18" or so) drill bit and drilling a hole in the ground to get … you might be able to use a normal twist-drill bit (ie, something cheap and awful to begin with that you won't mind dulling.) …
answered May 23 '17 by Ecnerwal
2
votes
2 hours - all = 1.2 Ah. NiCads (when happy) are capable of providing very large currents - so you'll need a 12V adapter with a bit more current capability to be able to run your drill at full speed … as a "corded" drill. Cut and try is the best I can suggest - i.e., find a 2.5A or 3A 12V DC supply and see if it will run the drill at full load or not - or else find a large 12VDC battery (such as a …
answered Jan 22 '14 by Ecnerwal
1
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protective steel plates over things in the wall like wires and plumbing, so you have probably found something like that with your drill bit and very long screws. …
answered Apr 5 '15 by Ecnerwal
2
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Yes, of course there is. Dowel centers. Pop them in the holes, push or tap the board, remove the board, drill the board, remove the centers. This is a common problem with a standard solution. …
answered Jan 3 '17 by Ecnerwal
1
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Reverse the order of operations - drill the counterbore (it's not a countersink, as described) first, then drill the through hole starting from the point of the Forstner in the center of the … when drilling, so you drill through into the wood, not into air. You might even want to clamp the step and the scrap wood together. …
answered May 27 '17 by Ecnerwal

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