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Your house draws 95 amps from the mains, and 45 amps from the solar+inverter (it's a sunny day). The 100A main breaker does not trip. The 50A solar breaker does not trip. …

You have faithfully built out your grounding system and kept it separate from the neutral system, which is better than a lot of people do. It sounds like you've done this work to Code. But what you …

OK, so you build a virtual "extension cord" from your inverter to that inlet/plug. On shore power, you plug the RV into shore power. On generator, you plug the RV into the inverter instead. … Either one simply goes straight to the inverter. Now the procedure is simple: whenever you unhook from shore power, you connect that cord so you are looping over to the inverter. …

So we have 55 watts for the inverter simply to be on 40 watts for the load 4 watts of conversison losses Total 99 watts to run the light off the inverter. … Shut that inverter off! …

On the inverter, only the hot wire was connected through back to the panel. The neutral was never connected or switched, and so neutral is forced to go backwards through the system via the plug. … My guess is this was done so the panel could be "back-fed" so the whole house could be powered (on 650VA inverter that can barely provide 3 amps, lol). …

It looks like it only needs AC power to configure. That would make sense, since one might need to configure it at night. Note that it has some sort of configuration SIM card, as well as a cloud-based …

I'm never a fan of "all-in-one" units because you get mediocre everything and you cannot choose the best solar charge controller, battery charger and inverter. …

But what you're overlooking is inverter losses aren't just a percentage, they are also a "flat rate" required to have the inverter "spun up" at all. … Can the inverter be a high 900VA device supplied by low AH batteries E.g. 2 Car batteries rated at 45AH each? The inverter might suffice but the battery sure won't. …

A competent quality 150AH battery + 1000W inverter combo goes for about $450 in the US market, so your $360ish is sensible given lower Indian distribution costs. … be overloading the inverter when combined with the other house loads. …

At a physical level, can anyone explain how the inverter can provide power at a higher priority than the grid? … I don't understand how it seems that the inverter can supply 95% of the demand overriding the supply of the grid. …

Two things need to happen *based on the unit's price and functionality): The inverter needs to "spin up" and start making AC power. … It must break contact with "utility" before it can make contact with "inverter" for safety reasons. …

A Grid-Tie system should be isolated First, if this is a grid tied system, the inverter should comply with UL 1741 aka IEC 62109 rules for grid following, and totally shut down and isolate when it is not …

Plus a separate 5kW inverter... same as if you bought those components as separates. They are in a single enclosure and acting on the same battery. … Your AC output will be capped at 5kW because that's the size of your AC inverter. …

Into it go two 2-pole breakers: one of them 30A (for the utility side) and the other is probably 15A (or whatever is appropriate for the inverter). … On inverter, the inverter bonds neutral and ground, and this isn't disconnected by a normal switch. So the RV is bonding neutral and ground from the house. …

Given that max is never gonna happen... how do we size the inverter(s)? … Using the max possible inverter capacity limits your array size - if you had used 410-425W inverters, you'd be limited to nine of them. By dropping the inverter to 300W, you can have twelve. …