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If you're worried about economizing on the number of cuts it may be that you're doing the cuts wrong! Fix the miter saw to something: a work bench, a plank, a pair of the 12+ foot 2x4's you'll be usin …

I place my framing square so that its 1.5" wide leg lays across the two plates, align its edge to the 16" mark on my tape, and with two swipes of the pencil mark the two sides of the stud. … I might cut a scrap block of 2x4 to that size and use it as a spacer (this house or whatever I'm framing will have at least 4 outside corners; I'm going to need this same offset for every one of them!) …

You could cut lumber to float in the space between the pipes and secure it inside the wall with sheet metal. There could be several variations on the idea, but here is one. Cut a piece of plywood to …

Is there a reason why you need a 3-1/2" thick wall? If not, the studs could be rotated so the rough wall adds only 1-1/2" in front of the insulation/wrap. It seems that would make all the other proble …

Option B is really only possible when you'll change both the roof and the indoor ceiling heights. (Note the heights of the overhead doors in the photo: they indicate a change of indoor ceiling height …

If you allow construction to proceed then any work done by other trades which has to be re-done on account of the framing defects may be at your cost, not that of the framers. …

I suppose there must be a way you could splice dimensional lumber and make a longer span, but... why? Have a look at wood I-joists. Boise Cascade (BCI), LP Building Products (SolidStart) and Weyerhaeu …

The only suggestion I could give is that the box could be built much smaller if you make the acquaintance of alternate building materials. For example: steel studs. Below are photos of a steel stud an …

I think the short answer is this: you can't modify that load bearing wall to accommodate an interior French drain. The whole situation is sketchy to begin with as others have well described. Consider …

The damage doesn't look too severe. You might be able to eliminate much of it by running a router along the edge with a 1/2" or 3/4" round-over bit. Nobody says the post has to retain its current 1/8" …

If you build the wall so that it supports the floor joists then one problem that could occur is that the floor joist will become a lever. When it sags/bounces in the middle of the long span, the tail …

A hole between the top plate and the top-of-door rough opening doesn't have to be bored perfectly along the axis of the wall -- so drill it on a slight diagonal. Insert the drill bit from the doorway …

Dropped ceilings like you've described are a routine thing in commercial construction. I haven't done commercial construction, but I do have a habit (hobby?) of noting whatever details I can observe w …

Tricky situation. I think you're right that the microwave's weight is supposed to be supported mostly by the wall bracket at the bottom edge. A fair chunk of weight is supported by the upper screws at …

I'm of the opinion that no backing is needed in the direction perpendicular to the floor joists -- the sheathing is intended to span between joists after all. It won't hurt to have backing on that edg …