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While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse. My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. …

That looks like bevel casing, possibly oak. Take your sample to local lumberyards (not big box stores) and see what they have. If you can’t find an exact match, replace everything in the immediate vic …

We like it for bathrooms and other wet environments. It nails perfectly normally with an air nailer (usually 18g). The only thing is that you can't cut it slowly, as it'll melt and you'll end up wit …

To answer your specific questions, you shouldn't assume spring angle is 45 degrees. Put a framing square on the flats of the crown and you'll know if it's symmetrical or 38/52. To cut this flat, your …

Yes, google "jamb extension", and you'll get plenty of instruction. The only quirk to watch for is that the width of the jamb extension will sometimes vary because the door/wall relationship isn't p …

Caulk the joint between the new stool and the window trim so that condensation doesn't collect below. …

I guess it's too late to consider 5-1/4" trim? Hit the line of old caulk with a long blade utility knife (like an Olfa), a sharp chisel or a wallpaper scraper. …

Paint or remove is somewhat of an aesthetic choice, but off the top of my head, here’s what’s involved in either plan. Paint — scuff the crown lightly with 120 grit paper. Wipe it clean. Spackle any o …

For jamb extensions, I'll always use wood (pine/poplar) over mdf, as the tiniest bit of moisture on mdf will swell it like old cardboard. Be sure to prime every side of the wood (including cut ends) b …

There are many good approaches to this problem, but here’s the quick and dirty: Pound the edge of the drywall down with a hammer. Yes, pulverize the gypsum until roughly flush with the door jamb. Try …

Long (3") screws (3 or 4) through the jamb into the framing of the house should do it. Be careful not to drive them too tight; otherwise you'll warp the jamb and the door will fit loosely. In a perfec …

Find some cheap 1/2"x (something like 1" -- could be 3/4; could probably be as big as 1-1/4). Nail that to the jamb first. (1/4" reveal is typical.) Then put door casing on top of that. Could be dead …

That could probably be a little tighter, but isn't terrible. (The underlying reason for a bit of a gap is that walls aren't perfectly straight or plumb.) Where I work, caulking is done by the painter …

Your latch is typical; you just need a strike plate with an extended tongue. (Admittedly, "tongue" probably isn't the right technical term, but I imagine you've got the picture.)

PVC baseboard moldings are readily available in 12' (and probably longer). For example, http://www.lowes.com/pd_310628-1487-07527_0__?productId=3340764 (EverTrue 3.25-in x 12-ft Interior/Exterior PVC …