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Systems engineering tradeoffs. In general, one pump per zone will cost more, but can (in theory) be matched more perfectly to the zone (but there are only a few typical sizes of pump, so that may not …

If it operates whenever it's cold, then I suppose you could see if it operates when it's "just cold" Of course, that also wastes money on heating things when there's no snow, but given that these syst …

1,3 and 2,4 should not be shorted - that would defeat the entire point of having a thermostat. If the temperature is below the current setting of 70°C they should be connected (switched on) by the the …

Sounds right for a glycol system with no bleeders. The circulating pump is not an issue, it won't block flow unless it has a check valve built in and your connection is opposite that (which I don't th …

Depending on your LAHJ, you may also not be legally permited to install a boiler, period, unless you are licensed for that trade. … Boiler mishaps are expensive in terms of dollars and lives, leading to considerable legislation applying to their installation. …

You should have a pressure gauge (often on the same face as a temperature gauge) on the boiler - what does that read? Normally it should be 20-30 PSI. You may need to add water. …

If you have a (domestic/potable) hot water coil, that could be leaking into the boiler, too. Shut off the domestic hot water supply on the cold side of the boiler to diagnose that possibility. …

On page 5 of the boiler manual you linked to, it states: PRE-HEAT DHW pre-heat will be disabled during DHW off periods. … And @RedGrittyBrick's suggestion is a good one, if a newer control panel is compatible with an older boiler. …

In situations like this, I generally find that the manufacturer is a more reliable source of accurate information than an installer, especially an installer whom you are not using (but then again, you …

You need a relay, which is a usually part of a timer - but you need a timer which has separate contacts for its power, and the relay contacts, rather than a plug-in type timer that combines those. Th …

The air separator is in the wrong place (it should be right after the heater/boiler) in the loop, as hotter water holds less air/gasses in solution than cooler water, so that's where it's most easily/effectively …

The usual reason for a zone to heat when the boiler fires for hot water only, and the zone is not calling for heat, is thermo-syphoning and lack of heat traps in the piping system to prevent thermo-syphoning …

The big silver item in the removed section of pipe appears to be a pressure regulator that's been bypassed now. Perhaps it failed. Not sure why you'd have a pressure regulator just there.

The reducing valve (what I call an autofill valve) adds water to the boiler loop when boiler pressure falls below its setpoint. … Your boiler runs for a while, and then shuts down and starts to cool - the air in the expansion tank expands as the water in the boiler and pipes cools & shrinks, and if there are no leaks, the system …

You call a plumber and get the water heater replaced. Most of the white junk appears to be mineral build-up from ignoring a leak for a long time. Have the new one installed properly to code with a dra …