I have the floor nailed down in the entire room , except for the last seven courses. The pneumatic floor nailer can't get any closer than that without the mallet hitting the wall. Do I really have to pre-drill and hand-nail the last seven courses? I'm using a Porter-Cable FCN200 Pneumatic Flooring Cleat Nailer.
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Can you rotate it to be at right angles to the wall? Then that would just leave the corners.– ChrisF ♦Nov 8, 2011 at 20:45
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@ChrisF Rotate the nailer? Or the flooring? I can't see how it would work either way.– aphoriaNov 8, 2011 at 20:56
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The idea was that you'd be parallel to the wall (if that was possible). However, I see from the image that that probably wouldn't work.– ChrisF ♦Nov 8, 2011 at 20:58
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One of the mfg selling points is "Non-marring base allows user to drive fastener close to wall". Maybe you're as close as they mean, but have you checked the manual for tips?– ScivitriNov 9, 2011 at 1:45
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Thanks. The manual does not help with this question.– PhilipNov 9, 2011 at 14:10
2 Answers
Usually you can hand toenail all but the last two rows, thus hiding the nails. Pre-drill pilot holes just above the tongue (same angle and placement as nailer would have done) and set the nails. You can use a wedge and blocks to tighten and hold the slats for nailing. The last couple of rows should be glued and face nailed. Counter sink the nails and fill with a matching filler. If the floor is prefinished, then the manufactured probably offers a matching filler. If it is unfinished, be sure to use a stain-able filler.
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I used this technique, but I only face nailed the last row so I could hide the nails under the shoe molding.– aphoriaNov 10, 2011 at 17:54
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As long as you get a swing with the hammer, getting down to last row is great. I use the side of the hammer and try to get to the last row also. Nov 10, 2011 at 21:51
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I should've mentioned that the base trim wasn't up either, so I had a little bit extra clearance.– aphoriaNov 11, 2011 at 12:49
Yes, you will have to hand-nail.