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I have installed a GFCI outletpt and it shows green but I have no power? There are four wires BLK/RED (hot) and 2 whites (Neutral). I wired it white/Blk line and white/red load. It is on a double breaker but can not see any other outlet in the kitchen that it is hooked up too? I have tried various combos and all I get is blank or a red light? Thc CFCI is a Leviton slim design. I have replaced 3 other plugs in kitchen successfully but they only have 3 wires. I am so frustrated. Please help!

  • Can you post a photo of the inside of the box? – ThreePhaseEel Sep 17 '16 at 18:52
  • Are you sure the black is the hot lead? – Ed Beal Sep 17 '16 at 18:58
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GFCI installation differs from usual receptacle.

A GFCI can protect other non GFCI receptacles in addition to its own. Use a voltage tester to determine where is the power coming from. The incoming hot and neutral (from same cable) should be connected to LINE side of the GFCI. GFCI Wiring

The other hot and neutral going to other non GFCI receptacles should be connected to the LOAD side of GFCI. The manual has clear instructions. Find the manual for your product, a Leviton GFCI manual is linked below as a reference.

An excerpt from Leviton Product Bulletin:

If a SmartlockPro GFCI is miswired during installation (line-load reversal) it cannot be reset. The green LED will be ON to indicate a line-load reversal. Once the GFCI is properly wired and can be reset, the LED acts as a power indicator that remains ON as long as the GFCI is operating correctly and providing power. Unlike some other designs that employ a one-time feature, Leviton’s line-load reversal protection is not lost or disabled after initial installation.

Also please refer to the installation manual Your product manual may slightly differ.

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    This sounds correct but an alternative remedy (if you have room in the box and a bit of extra wire) would be to connect the black and red together and the two white wires together. Then from those pigtail off a single black and a single white to connect to the line connections on the GFCI. Those extra wires won't be GFCI protected, but this way you don't have to figure out which wires are which. – Mysterfxit Sep 18 '16 at 2:53
  • @Mysterfxit good tip! +1 – Chetan Bhargava Sep 18 '16 at 3:00
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    Thanks. Also if there's no room in the box to pigtail he can do trial and error to get it wired correctly. With those four wires there are only 4 possible configurations. (Line=R+W1/Load=B+W2) (Line=R+W2/Load=B+W1) (Line=B+W2/Load=R+W1) (Line=B+W1/Load=R+W2) – Mysterfxit Sep 18 '16 at 3:12
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One step at a time.

First, hook up only the wires to the LINE side of the GFCI.

Second, troubleshoot until the GFCI is fully working normally.

Third, hook up the wires to the LOAD side.

Fourth make sure everything is still working including those downstream outlets.

Any receptacles that lose power between steps 1 and 3, will end up being protected by this GFCI. They do not need a GFCI of their own. They will need a sticker saying "GFCI protected".

You can have GFCI's feeding more GFCI's if you really want to... But this will mean when a GFCI trips, all of them will trip, and you will have to hunt around to find all the GFCI's that tripped before you can get power back. It will be very annoying.

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Check the outlet you removed and see if the tab between the gold screw has been removed. It's common to see /3 wire ran to kitchen outlets from a double breaker. The purpose is to give you two separate circuits on one outlet. If you test voltage between the black and red wire and get 220 volts then that's the case.

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