I have this transition joint:

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that I need to install between a section of floating floor and a section of vinyl floor.

Unfortunately, the height between the two sections is too high and the joint can't sit happily on both sides: there is a gap.

enter image description here

What can I do to 'raise' the joint?

I though about gluing Popsicle sticks with carpenter's glue under the join, but I'm not sure it's going to be solid enough (I assume that the sticks will break under the pressure at some point).

  • Bob I might be misunderstanding the problem. If you were to raise the transition strip, wouldn't it make the gap between the tiles and strip worse? Don't you want to lower the strip?
    – Levi
    Commented Sep 11, 2016 at 16:52
  • @Levi Oh, yeah, well I want to 'raise' it from when it's sitting idly, so I want to increase the height of the strip so that it lays flat on both sides (on the vinyl floor and on the floating floor). So yeah, I'd like it to lower it, in a way :) Commented Sep 11, 2016 at 17:23
  • 1
    How come you do not want to purchase a transition with the proper dimensions (or at least closer)? A good molding shop, or sometimes a good tile shop, will have a variety of sizes and shapes. When I could not find the perfect size I paid the guy at the molding shop $20 to zip it down on his table saw, it fit perfect (and it was solid oak, not MDF). Commented Sep 11, 2016 at 17:52
  • 1
    @JimmyFix-it We purchase the transition molding at the same time that we bought the flooring packages. This was about 3 years ago and we did not know better at that time. This specific molding is the last one I have to install in the whole condo, so if I'd like to use another one from a specialized shop, I'd have to change all of the others in the condo unit. This is why I'd like it get it done, rather than get it done quickly! If I had to do it all over again, I might consider purchasing the transition moldings in a specialized shop. Commented Sep 12, 2016 at 11:25

2 Answers 2


You need to take into account three issues: Pressure from the top (someone standing on the strip), lateral pressure (someone knocking or stubbing the trip forwards or backwards), and moisture (what goes under the trim when mopping the floor).

To address each of these issues:

  1. Place support under the flat surface of the trim
  2. Ensure some of the bracket is still available, and
  3. Use wood that is tolerant to moisture

I had a similar problem (with an identical piece of trim) and this is how I fixed the issue. It's not perfect, but you'll hardly notice!

  1. Use a chisel to remove the small rectangle of wood that the strip connects to. (The X in the picture)
  2. Cut the floor strip to remove the right side of the plastic. In the picture below, it would result in the plastic strip looking like an uppercase letter L.
  3. Dry install the strip and the transition. You may find the strip is too tall (i.e. the 'back' of the L) to let the transition sit flush with the floor. If so, shave down the strip. Be careful, these guys shatter easily. A file may be best.
  4. Align and install your strip.
  5. Find a piece of wood (perhaps a water resistant MDF) that is the right height to place under the transition.
  6. Install the spacing wood. Personally I would screw it to the floor.
  7. Apply construction adhesive to strip and top of the spacer. Your connecting strip is compromised - be generous with the adhesive.
  8. Leave to dry, best of luck with your project!

Bit to remove


I had a simile problem you first described, needed to raise the track because our LVT is the premium version 6.5 mm thick, whereas the transition we bought was for the regular thickness luxury vinyl tile.

The transition would not snap in to the track because the flooring was too high, and we have underneath a 1.5 mm foam underlayment for LVT (by Sentinel).

I had a small scrap piece of 3mm thick plywood used for underlayment for the same bathroom’s subfloor. I used the aluminum track to mark 1/2” strips, cut with a radial saw. Now I had four strips giving me 24” coverage under the 28” track. That only left a few, inch gaps.

I lined up the wood strips under the track to get best coverage of the tracks holes, glued the strips to the floor, drilled pilot holes, and fastened everything down with the screws.

Now the top of the track was within 1mm of the top of the LVT flooring. The transition went right in, now that the track is raised by 3mm

6” x 2.3” wood, 3mm thick, cut into 1/2” strips

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