What is the cure/dry time for nearly encapsulated Loctite All Purpose Polyseamseal Original Formula (new tube bought at hardware store yesterday)? Does this product dry or cure? Hope I didn't mess up choosing this product given my application.


Our 10+ year old vinyl floor (or linoleum) was glued down with a butt joint against the tub, except it is short/shy by about 1/16. The old caulk is almost gone, and the flooring is peeling up a little bit, but lays back down flat with light pressure.

I bought an aluminum trim strip like the middle one here:

enter image description here

except it's not cove, instead it is a quarter-round profile, something like 3/16 or 1/4" radius.

I passed it over my table saw to cut off the unwanted, leaving just the quarter round piece. It is tiny.

Because it is water based and water-resistant, for better or worse I used the polyseamseal to 'glue' it in place. To keep it clamped in place while curing/drying, I used a half dozen 10' long springy wood sticks to the ceiling corner every 10".

Did the work last night. Looks great today with almost no caulk exposed. Sticks are still in place. But I'm wondering with little air exposure and only possible minimal exposure to the underlayment (possibly none if the vinyl adhesive was spread all the way to the tub), will it dry/cure? and how long will that take? How long should I leave the sticks in place?

If I chose the wrong product, what product would have used?

  • Judging by some of the wording near the top of page 2 of the datasheet (loctiteproducts.com/tds/PSS_SEAL_AP_tds.pdf) I think you may have some trouble.
    – brhans
    Aug 24, 2016 at 21:58
  • Thanks, that datasheet covers the product I used. Unless I am missing something, the "For Best Results" paragraph worries me. Yesterday I saw a similar product (different mfr) that stipulated one of the surfaces must be porous. My concern is due to have read that warning on that different product. With minimal air/wood exposure, will it cure/dry in my application? and if so, how long?
    – IPA
    Aug 25, 2016 at 0:02
  • My experience with Polyseamseal has been that it has a long cure time and is not very flexible (compared to silicone or siliconized latex). The clear applies white and cures clear but it stays white inside for days and days, and that is with open air exposure. Aug 25, 2016 at 0:37
  • Jimmy - That is bad news for me.
    – IPA
    Aug 25, 2016 at 1:35

1 Answer 1


Bottom line: the concerns in the comments above have not come forward. I'd choose Polyseamseal again for this application.

Removed the wood clamping sticks this morning, several hours ago. Aluminum trim strip is solidly held, doesn't budge under pressure, and is not pulling away. So the answer is that enough Polyseamseal cured/dried in 48 hours to hold it in place.

In hindsight, the adhesive that is closest to the air is also the adhesive with the most leverage, and first to cure/dry. I ought to have realized this in the first place. Also, also in hindsight, while there may be only miniscule exposure to air (essentially none), the thickness is similarly miniscule, so proportionality is not lost relative to a caulking application.

I'm on hold with Loctite technical support RE cure/dry. Will update my answer after speaking with them

UPDATE: Just got off the phone with Loctite. Product doesn't dry, it cures, but I didn't press for details. Wish I had. Better product would have been their PowerGrap Adhesive, which is white and water cleanup. Said the Polyseamseal is not an adhesive, but I pointed out that their webpage describes it as "FLEXIBLE & DURABLE ADHESIVE CAULK", which was explained as, effectively, a miscommunication between engineering and marketing.

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