I recently took down a fluorescent light fixture. I put a new standard light fixture up, turned the breaker on and it kicked the breaker. I assume that it was too much for the breaker.

Since it was regular 60 watt bulbs, I just took it down and wired the wires back together. Now nothing works. It's showing 110 to the hot wire and I've tried wiring each wire individually to the hot wire, and still nothing, It's showing power at all the light switches. Any suggestions?

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    Can you provide photos of the configuration? – ThreePhaseEel Aug 14 '16 at 10:11
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    may be a short in the new fixture, or you have it wired with the hot to the neutral side of the fixture that may be bonded to the ground. – shirlock homes Aug 14 '16 at 10:15
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    Odds are excellent that you wired it up wrong, as a dead short. It would take 31 60-watt bulbs to overload a 15A breaker. Would have helped if you had taken pictures before you disconnected the first (working) fixture, now you have a puzzle that requires understanding typical wiring practices and debugging what is actually connected to what, how. Given the overall thread of your question, I'm feeling like for you, it might be time to call professional help, since you don't seem to grasp what you are doing and as a result you are randomly trying things that may result in an unsafe installation. – Ecnerwal Aug 14 '16 at 15:39

School up

You may need to learn a bit on home electrical. It's not impossible to learn, but it's also not a matter of twisting random wires together until stuff works. (that will more likely burn your house down or get someone electrocuted.) Particularly, school up on all the different ways to wire a "switch loop". There is one right way. There are several ways that will make the fixture light, but are dangerous.

A little learning won't tell you everything, but it will tell you enough to help you narrow it down a lot.

Are the bulbs overloading the circuit or the fixture itself?

Remove ALL the bulbs and connect the fixture properly. The fixture has a hot, neutral and ground. Connect fixture ground to ground always, there's no question or thinking about that. Connect fixture neutral to supply neutral (almost always white). Connect fixture hot to supply hot. Learning to tell the difference between these wires is why I say "school up".

Make sure your supply hot and supply neutral are not connected to each other. That would be a dead short.

A dead short will trip the breaker instantly. An overload will take a few seconds to trip.

If the fixture trips the circuit with no bulbs in it -- it's a bad fixture.

Overload trip or ground-fault trip?

Many bathroom circuits have ground-fault protection. This is designed to save lives if electrical current tries to go through a person, likely killing them. This will also trip instantly. Some breakers will show you whether it's a ground fault trip or an overload trip.

As long as you haven't mixed up ground and neutral, a ground-fault trip on a fixture means it's a bad fixture which can kill people. Back to the store it goes, and don't buy that brand again.

Get rid of the incandescents

They're just too inefficient. They make a lot of heat, which makes the bathroom too warm. This takes more A/C to remove that heat. It drives up your electric bill so much that LEDs will pay for themselves in a year.

I know some are reluctant to convert to new technologies. CFL was a gap technology until they made LEDs work. LEDs are the thing - they aren't going to get replaced by some other technology soon. Color and price are now quite good. Quality LEDs will last 20 years. (of course cheap Home Depot or Costco junk is still junk, you really gotta watch your brands when buying).

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