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I saw a can crusher I wanted to build in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLJgQUiXHV0

And so I built the attachment wheel, shaft, and can chute. Then I bought the motor off ebay here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sumitomo-SM-Cyclo-HM-3097-AS-1-3-HP-1-Phase-Induction-Motor-/381191021505

But I'm not sure what's used to power it? Does anyone know?

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    It says 1 phase so I would guess it is a 120/240 motor. That brand of motor I have are dual voltage 3 phase. The motor connections are usually listed on the name plate – Ed Beal Aug 4 '16 at 21:09
  • This is pretty off-topic for Home Improvement. – Daniel Griscom Aug 5 '16 at 0:21
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    Really a home can crusher recycler sounds like a great DIY home project to me. I used to crush them by hand with a 2" pipe and a 3" thick block of steel 3 or 4 inch diameter welded to the bottom. Now that the bar codes have to be readable to redeem in my state it is a pain. This project makes recycling easy and the cans are easier to transport. – Ed Beal Aug 5 '16 at 0:28
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I did not see the motor face plate when I first looked went back to get the motor number and did see it. 115/230V so it can run on both voltages. You will need to verify how it is wired and compare that to you want. It is easy to change the connections in the "J" box on the side of the motor where the power leads come out. The wire connection diagram is just behind where the cord is cut off on a silver sticker. The wires are usually numbered, stamped into the wires or have tape numbers on them. Added: Here is a link to there motor selection chart. On page 5.7 the connection diagram shows: 120v connect T1-T3-T8 together to white standard plug, T4-T5-T2 together to black plug. The ground to the screw to the frame. The wires may just have a number stamped on them if there are additional wires tape or wire nut the ends. To run with 240V: Connect T3-T8-T2 together connect 1 hot to T1, connect T4-T5 together with the other hot, ground goes to the screw in the motor "J" box. Running the motor with 120V will draw (6.4 amps) 2x the current as the 240V (3.2A) connection. This information is shown on the motor face plate. the starting current can be as high as 525% as listed on page 5.14 of the link. I did not see a thermal overload listed for this motor. Overloads are set at 115% of the above currents to protect the motor if the output shaft is locked. Since this is a machine that you are going to be working with while running make sure to turn the power off if the motor stalls or the stater winding's will overheat and the magic smoke will escape. Good luck looks like a fun project.

  • Thank you for your response. I would just like to plug it into an outlet at my house. Is that possible? I'm not sure how to read the diagram. It just has 1,2,3,4,etc and wires running around. I am not familiar with motors. Can you link a resource to learn how to read these diagrams. – Seth Kitchen Aug 5 '16 at 2:57
  • You think this wire would work? monoprice.com/… – Seth Kitchen Aug 16 '16 at 2:24
  • 12 gauge wire would be good but CL it a lighter duty. I would suggest type SJ junior hard service, Or SE hard service cord. Both types may have additional letters like "O" oil resistant "W" thermoplastic. these cord types have a outer jacket that will hold up better than type C. – Ed Beal Aug 16 '16 at 13:05
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The photo of the data plate shows it can be powered by 110 or 220v, often referred to as 120/240v, so ordinary house current will work. The other photo of the data plate shows the gear reduction is 87 to 1, and rpm is 20.1, which is approximately that of the video.

Connect up the power leads and plug it in.

  • Do you know what is used to connect the power leads? Can I get it online or at Lowes/Home Depot? – Seth Kitchen Aug 5 '16 at 2:54
  • For safety's sake, you'd want to match the wire gauge currently attached to the motor. Such wire can be purchased at Home Depot, probably also at Lowes. A common power plug to match the wire gauge and perhaps a switch to be able to turn it off and on safely, all in the same department. – fred_dot_u Aug 5 '16 at 12:32
  • You may be able to open the junction box from which the wire end now extends. I'd expect to find screw terminals within, to which you can attach the new wire. Match colors or look for L, N, G, for Live, Neutral, Ground. You can research the suitable connections for LNG for the plug you purchase, as well as appropriate colors to keep within a standard. Although following standards aren't critical in this application, it makes things easier for others to understand, should it be necessary. – fred_dot_u Aug 5 '16 at 12:34
  • You think this wire would work? monoprice.com/… – Seth Kitchen Aug 16 '16 at 2:24
  • The wire you've linked is 12 gauge, which can handle up to 20 amperes of current. That's approximately 2000 watts or nearly 3 horsepower, ignoring resistive losses and other conversion factors, and using a lot of rounding off to simplify things. Considering that the motor is rated at 1/3 horsepower, you'll have plenty of reserve capacity. You can save money by moving to 16 gauge and having reserve as well. – fred_dot_u Aug 16 '16 at 19:09

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