Unfortunately, I started installing a blind before properly reading up about drywall and studs (my previous flats did not feature drywalls). I ended up drilling a hole into the stud and fastening the blind using mollies.

I tried to pull the mollies out, but they seemed to be anchored quite well. I hate to leave a sloppy job behind me, but I would have it even more if I made a bigger damage.

How bad is it to put mollies into studs? Should I replace the mollies with plastic screw anchors?

  • I don't think those mollies are really ever intended to be removed. Also, plastic screw in anchors would not attach into a stud (properly even if you managed). Why not just use long wood/drywall screws into the wood, and abandon anchor all together? – BrownRedHawk Aug 2 '16 at 20:31
  • Not sure I transmitted the right question. In essence, I made a mistake in the past. Is it worth fixing it? I will, of course, use long wood screws into the wood next time. – user1202136 Aug 2 '16 at 20:35
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    Your question still isn't clear. Are you asking about the performance of your installation, or about the legal or moral implications of leaving the anchors behind when you move? – isherwood Aug 2 '16 at 21:53
  • I think this is one of those few situations where you just have to ask 2 questions "Will it stay?" and "Will anyone notice until they take it apart?", and if the answer is "Yes" and "No" respectively, why do the work a second time? – BrownRedHawk Aug 3 '16 at 14:16
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    Mollies are tough to remove. I will unscrew them until the screw is almost out then press in this flexes the metal 3 or 4 cycles of doing this the back side breaks off and then the front can be pulled out. After pulling the front out a little dab of sheet rock mud or Spackle to fill the hole and it is done. – Ed Beal Aug 3 '16 at 14:25

As long as the molly/anchor, that you used, is holding securely - you should be fine.

Anchors similar to that pictured below, that "fill" the hole - NOT the tapered ones - are ideal in situations, like yours. Tapered mollies, are designed to expand, into compressible mediums. The anchor pictured, "is" compressible, and grips uniformly, along its length - normally intended for harder materials like; wood, tile, concrete, etc. The ridges, along its length, ensure that it grips, and does not turn, while driving in the screw.

The two types are generally not interchangeable.

enter image description here

Alternatively, if you want to regain the screw to wood interface - just glue a wooden dowel, into the hole; cut it short enough to be below the drywall surface; spackle the drywall; and then drive your screw into the dowel.

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Chances are you did not drill a 1 1/2" hole for a molly (into a stud, such that you created a notch), so the rules about notching are not really applicable, but this would be the best kind of guide.

The depth for notching a stud depends on whether or not it is load bearing. For a load bearing stud you can notch up to 25% (7/8") depth; for a non-load bearing stud it is 40% (roughly 1 3/8") depth.

Now, considering how deeply you drilled and the size of the bit should help elucidate the answer. If you drill bit was less than 3/8", then you should be okay. If the drill bit was more like 3/4" and you drilled more than a couple inches deep, then it could be a problem.

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