I'm opening up a closet in our 1958 home.

I believe (I plan to get confirmation from a licensed contractor or engineer) that this is not a load bearing wall considering that the opening runs parallel to the joists in the attic above, the wall is an interior wall for a bedroom behind, and considering the way this was installed (both sides of header not resting on a support).

I'd like to remove the left side of the closet opening to get as close to the exterior wall (masonry) as possible. I plan to keep the 2x4 headers in place just because it will be a whole lot less work for me. I am wondering if I should install a framing bracket of some sort to provide support to the 2x4 headers that will no longer have the 2x4 vertical support.

Front View of closet opening

View from inside.  If from front this is the left side

View from inside.  If from front this is the right side

View from inside.  If from front this is the left side

2: Front View of closet opening 2

  • 2
    Don't "believe." Get a licenced contractor or carpenter to tell you whether or not it is load-bearing. – Carl Witthoft Jun 27 '16 at 11:37
  • Ok...Thanks for your feedback. I plan to do that. I've updated my question to reflect that I will get confirmation from a licensed contractor. My question is aimed at getting assistance with what to do after I get confirmation that this is not a load bearing wall. – dmittakarin8 Jun 27 '16 at 11:59
  • It's probably load bearing so you'd have to scale up the 2x4 header. How much, and how to join everything together, there isn't much anyone here can help you with. – Chris Jun 27 '16 at 12:19
  • 2
    With no king studs to support the wall I would not call it load bearing, Kings are required in some areas for earthquake safety. There is however a heavy wall there looking at the cement and wire. I would believe the floor of the room behind the wall is the load bearing structure from what I see. – Ed Beal Jun 27 '16 at 12:57
  • 1
    That looks suspiciously like shoddy remodel work - I'd get a licensed contractor to verify. What you're wanting to open up, may of in fact been previously open, and then sealed up. – tahwos Jun 29 '16 at 0:00

From what I can see here, and assuming not a load-bearing situation, I'd do this:

  • Remove the existing header. You may need to use a recipro saw to cut fasteners behind the plaster on the room side.
  • Since you have access from the back side, run a new, full-width double 2x6 header. If you don't have trimmer studs or other support available, fasten the header into the king studs with lag bolts. I'd probably use 3/8" x 4", properly pre-drilled and countersunk.
  • Toenail into the pin studs to anchor them to the header.

Optionally use construction adhesive where needed for additional support.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.