2

We've been working at putting a fence around our property and are almost finished. The last part that we have to do is we're adding gates to the end of our driveway.

The fence that we put up is a hogwire fence with wood framing. It looks like this:

Hogwire fence

However, to keep with the style of the fence, I'd like to build a matching gate. I've seen some ideas online of how to build a large gate that won't sag and came up with this similar design, but I'm still not sure of it: (Front and back views)

Gate design

I'm hoping to keep the opening as large as possible so that trailers and such can easily enter. We are also having the gap split into two gates and will be using an automatic opener system. Currently I'm looking at having it at 20' wide, so two 10' gates.

The question that I have is primarily, is this design reasonable in hoping that it won't sag? They will both be 10' wide X 4' high. I know that these will be incredibly heavy gates and this just seems unreasonable; but I saw it being done with a 10' wide X 6' high privacy gate, so I would think that these might be a little better off than that.

Also, our driveway is mostly flat and so we'd be able to use wheels if needed, but I'm hoping to avoid that if possible.

Last; I've thought about maybe buying two of the metal farm tube gates instead and just mounting this design (or similar) onto them. Does that sound like a better idea? Or possibly some form of metal support to add to this.

  • 1
    as long as the members are fastened properly, this looks fine. I'd glue and screw it. Bigger question might be, how are you planning to make sure the posts these gates hinge on stay straight up? – DrewJordan Jun 15 '16 at 18:32
  • A 20' opening is quite large! Even a 18-wheeler tractor/trailer is only 8 or 8.5' wide. – Hank Jun 17 '16 at 17:50
  • @HenryJackson Haha, we know. It's because our gate location is fairly close to a small road. So to make the turn, we're having to angle in and have a wide opening. – TFK Jun 17 '16 at 18:04
4

If you were my client and I was taking money for your project, I'd put wood on a metal substructure, have wheels on the ends, and make sure the posts were extremely well stuck in the ground. (You might be able to skimp a little on the post as long as the wheels are in contact with the ground at all points in the arc, but the other two points would be non-negotiable.)

2

I decided to go the route of getting the metal tube gates and possibly mounting the wood touches to it for the looks. I came to this conclusion for multiple reason;

  • After running the costs of building the entire gate out of wood, surprisingly it comes out to almost the same as just buying the tube gates.
  • My local farm store, where I bought the gates from, also had one design which has the wire pre-welded onto it. With this, it is definitely simple to just add the few wooden planks to finish the look.
  • Lastly, this removes most of the worry about the gates sagging. As long as the mounting and posts are done right, these metal frames should have a relatively long life.

Also, the design that I found above - after thinking about it a little better, isn't meant for dual gates. It'd work fine for a single 10' gate which can be supported on both sides when it's not opened, but in my case - neither of my gates would be supported without a wheel. One of the angled bars would transfer the stress back to the post, while the opposite one would be transferring it to the middle of the gates without any support.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.