As mentioned in this question I installed this dryer vent cap on my roof

enter image description here

As you can see, there is a gap between the flashing and the cap, presumably to let water out if it gets in. This is installed on a 12-12 pitch roof.

I found out the hard way that it's getting clogged by dryer lint, therefore blocking any water that gets trapped inside. I contacted the retailer and their suggestion was installing an inline lint trap as well. This isn't an ideal solution for me, as my options are to put it in the attic space (where I'll forget to clean it out) or cut an access door in the laundry closet wall and install it where the duct heads towards the roof.

I'm interested in any suggestions to modify the cap itself to decrease the chance of lint getting trapped.

  • Where in the cap is the lint getting clogged? I'd guess it's happening at the 180 degree angle? Commented Sep 30, 2011 at 14:02
  • @TheEvilGreebo it's clogging in that gap in the front, above the flashing. Commented Sep 30, 2011 at 14:04
  • Ah, that long narrow straight gap that's just designed for trapping lint, eh? Hmm. Commented Sep 30, 2011 at 14:05
  • The maker of this vent told me the shorter version of this vent the model 466 would never leak as you described if the pitch is between 3/12 and 12/12 that the weep hole is only for pitches less than 3/12.
    – user44618
    Commented Oct 15, 2015 at 18:55
  • The problem with any dryer vent is that it will inevitably eventually clog up with link. Dryer vents need to be cleaned regularly. At least annually. I'd worry that a vent on the roof would never be cleaned.
    – DA01
    Commented Oct 16, 2015 at 5:41

1 Answer 1


I cannot say I'm a fan of the design of that vent - although looking at your other question, I'm rather surprised that lint is falling down into that gap. Possibly your fan is creating too much pressure, and it's backing up inside the vent at the 180 and thus air is escaping through the pushing some lint down into that gap, where it can get stuck.

If that's the case, then you might try installing a baffle inside the vent to force lint up far enough in the vent so that it has to go out the intended port, but which still allows water out. Like so... enter image description here

Sorry, the color doesn't show well, but inside I've added a piece of metal running from just below the intake port to nearly the end of the angled portion of the vent, with a brace connecting it to the body to keep it stable. You can't see it but there should be drip holes at the point where the new plate hits the flashing for water drainage.

The idea being, lint flies in and cannot be forced directly down to the gap in question, but water will hit the tray, run back and go through the drip holes.

That or replace it with this

enter image description here

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