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****Edit** I have a vinyl quote with tear-out and new sheathing/house wrap for $2,400 -- the materials is $1475 and the labor is under $1k at $960. The guy has been doing only siding for 20 years -- has an awesome website and a ton of references, and was very upfront about what material cost is VS labor cost, which is exactly what I was looking for and didn't get with other bids. I'm for sure going to go with that and not pay double for hardie. $960 labor is fine with me and 100% worth my time rather than stumbling through the vinyl and mess it up. What the guy who has been doing it for 20 years will do in 1 or 2 days will take me weeks or months. As someone else said, I can do 2 vinyl jobs for the price of 1 hardie job. thanks everyone for input. It won't be as nice as hardie but will have a warranty etc******

I really need some advice from someone who isn't trying to get all my money

I have a house built in the 70s ok.... i'm the new homeowner... lived here for about a year

it's time to address my siding situation.

it's wood, don't know if OSB or Plywood, but either way - it's dry rotted and has cracks in it throughout, the worst of which is at the windows.

there is no vapor barrier behind it, and the sheathing is Fiberboard, not even plywood which is modern sheathing.

i had new windows put in in 2015, and at the time I had no idea about proper window flashing, contractor obviously took full advantage of that and didn't do anything on the windows except install them (poorly at that).

the new windows are not flashed, and as a result i found out now there is a lot of dry rot happening and water getting into the windows and it's a critical situation, etc according to the siding guys that have come and look at the situation.

the window situation you will see below is where trim was torn off on the previous windows and not restored when new windows were put in.

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Not just windows are effected, non-window sections are also split and rot and so on.

i need to know from someone experienced in this area roughly how much i could do this job for by myself with new plywood, new tyvek, new sheathing with plywood, OR repairing what's currently on there now (Is that even possible? Sand, paint, re-caulk, etc).

the measurement is 8 squares, 800 SQ FT.

My goal is to try to understand the DIY material cost vs paying a siding contractor for new engineered wood, or vinyl, or jamies hardie cement board, new tyvek vapor barrier, maybe new sheathing with plywood, etc etc.

closed as off-topic by isherwood, BMitch May 26 '16 at 15:08

  • This question does not appear to be about home improvement within the scope defined in the help center.
If this question can be reworded to fit the rules in the help center, please edit the question.

  • If your question is in fact "how much will this cost", it's off-topic for SE. There are far too many variables to consider for that to be a valuable question to the community. Make a list of components and visit your local lumber yard. – isherwood May 26 '16 at 1:04
  • I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because it is about the cost of a project. – BMitch May 26 '16 at 15:08
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i would think that the very fact you are asking the question on this forum implies you are not equipped to do the job. siding may seem like a simple thing, but if you do certain parts incorrectly, even slightly, they can come back to haunt you with huge repair bills to structural parts of the house. its probably time to get a pro in to do it. however, get multiple quotes and check references. go around your neighborhood and see who get the most referrals.

however, dont get sold on the fashion and keeping up with the jones products. just stick to plain horizontal or vertical board and batten vinyl. it lasts a really long time, and is so much cheaper than cement siding, that you can typically have it done three times over. you have already found out why not to use wood siding of any type.

  • Hi. I appreciate the honesty. My concern with Vinyl is that the first quote came in and said they will go over my existing wood siding. My second quote said the first contractor is a joke for suggesting that, because between the wood-rotted bad wood siding and the stryofoam of the viynl portion, i will be trapping moisture and penetrating through the house through the bad wood rot/etc. Otherwise, the viynl price did come in pretty cheap relative to the cement board estimate. – amalik May 25 '16 at 23:56
  • well, the first guy is a joke. it all has to come off and the substrate will have to be inspected, repaired and/or replaced. the best system is backing substrate, then typar or tyvek (i prefer tyvek), then purlins and then siding. all flashing should be aluminum, stainless or copper, but not coated steel. – personal privacy advocate May 26 '16 at 0:01
  • I really appreciate your feedback. I hope you see my edit at the top, your feedback mainly ironed my decision to do vinyl over hardie, i thought deep about it -- why do i need the hardie if vinyl will do the job (other than hardie looking better). the only concern i have is ensuring the thickness of the vinyl will be able to stand up to Colorado hail which we do sometimes get. the cost of the hardie is literally double. the other headache with hardie is having to re-caulk after 5-6 years. – amalik May 26 '16 at 14:14
  • just look around your neighborhood. i am sure you will find vinyl everywhere. – personal privacy advocate May 26 '16 at 19:40
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Your problem is not dry rot, it is water damage. Any proper re-install will address this, as long as the windows are also properly addressed. Do you feel competent to strip your walls to bare wood? If not, hire someone. Strip it to wood, re-sheath it, and install the siding of your choice. Make sure the windows are properly flashed. For 800 square feet, an average home handy man with patience could probably accomplish this. Do some on line research, but I think DIY vinyl or hardie plank would be most satisfactory. Wood lap siding can be a bit peckish. What you have now is plywood, and without constant painting, it rots just as you have shown.

  • I'm not too bad around the house, but no expert, work in IT :) -- do you have a rough cost estimate of 800 SQ ft worth, including plywood sheathing & tyvek? I read that hardie plank is very expensive & heavy, vinyl may be a bit more doable but not counting hardie out. – amalik May 26 '16 at 2:59
  • I don't mind building my own estimates, but I feel like retail lowes/home depot is not the best answer here. I'm thinking I need to research more whole-sale options for sheathing, tyvek, and siding. If my material cost is somewhat inline with the cost of paying a professional, I will hire it out. Obviously they will not be the same, but I'm comfortable with certain %'s over DIY. – amalik May 26 '16 at 3:08

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