1

The three wire connections as shown.

A splice

A splice

O-ring bolted

O-rings bolted

Double slide-on

Double slide-on

I can understand why there may be connection type diferences for ease of construction.

Are there any electrical differences in how they would transmit power if all wire were the same gauge?

  • Is all this from your fuse box and oven combination? – ThreePhaseEel May 24 '16 at 2:58
  • Yep, but I think it qualifies as a seperate question because it is about electrical flow and not directly related. This is all interior wiring. – beast May 24 '16 at 3:00
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    indeed it is good to post it as a separate question; a link to your previous question would have helped establish context though. – ThreePhaseEel May 24 '16 at 3:05
  • I guess I never thought the function aspect was directly related. ie. it should function electricaly the same no matter the device. diy.stackexchange.com/questions/91076/… – beast May 24 '16 at 3:13
3

In an ideal world -- these would be identical, and from a purely electrical standpoint, they basically are. But, we live in the real world, where connections have parasitic resistance and badly made connections can do naughty things while in the process of falling apart due to vibrations etal.

The heatshrunk-over splice can be very good or very bad -- a properly made linesman's splice (also called a Western Union splice) is a robust creature, but is best used with solid wire as it does not work nearly as well with stranded wire. However, a poorly made splice has a habit of well, disintegrating over time -- and the ensuing arcing is quite the problem-causer.

The stacking of multiple ring terminals on a nut and bolt is standard practice when terminal blocks of that type are used -- it is a solid connection when performed correctly using a locking washer or nut. It does seem that that is absent from the terminal block in question; however, in the context of an appliance, I would leave it in the as-manufactured configuration (clearly, the maker isn't concerned enough about vibration shaking the bolted joint loose to put the lockwasher in).

The final termination -- a double crimp into a female tab crimp terminal -- is also standard practice in chassis wiring. When made using a proper crimp tool capable of ensuring a gas-tight, cold welded crimp -- crimped terminations are as reliable as any termination scheme out there, and do not care about solid vs stranded wire. In fact, they have a long history of reliable service in aviation and other such mission-critical applications. And considering the factory floor isn't going to use a $10 set of crimp pliers, this is the most reliable termination of the three.

  • Thanks for the info. I was more asking about how the electricity flows. Why would you choose a splice rather than a nut and bolt if both were options? – beast May 24 '16 at 3:37
  • @beast -- short answer's mechanical reasons :) – ThreePhaseEel May 24 '16 at 3:40
  • So, they would all carry current in the same manner? 5 amps conected to any of these would provide 5 amps at each termination? – beast May 24 '16 at 3:44
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    @beast -- provided they are made properly -- they will perform as expected (as in -- a junction of wires with negligible resistance). – ThreePhaseEel May 24 '16 at 3:49
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    @beast in production, cost/time is also a factor. Splices may vary by which department did them - the production line with their $2000 air-powered crimp tool, vs. the rework shop (for a unit which failed initial QA). – Harper - Reinstate Monica May 24 '16 at 4:20

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