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This is for a Canadian Oven being installed in Canada.

Used oven came with this box.

The manual is not available.

The incoming line from both oven and junction are Red/White/Black/Ground.

I understand that the 120V needs the neutral to balance it for the clock/timer but am unsure how.

the included fuse box

under fuse

Oven name plate oven interior

Control board

Control board. To the left of the white connector it reads 120V

light switch

Light switch. asr 2178-179 203863-1020
10A1/2HP 120VAC

Broil/Bake selector

Broil/Bake selector.

Tempature

Tempature dial.

back panel

Interior back.

I am not against using a volt meter but not sure what I would be testing with it.

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  • Should the 15amp fuse be wired to the oven and the block then carry on to supply? I have misgivings about conecting that way because I think it is incorect to tie the neutral to the live. Also there is no supplied wire for this, not just because its a used oven but because the red 30amp has 2 push conectors to the 15amps 1.
    – beast
    Commented May 22, 2016 at 20:18
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    The white interconnecting wire may have nothing to do with neutral, it may be that color because that's the piece of scrap wire they had laying around when they built it.
    – Harper - Reinstate Monica
    Commented May 22, 2016 at 23:02
  • Possible, but it still needs the 15amp in line with the clock/timer somehow.
    – beast
    Commented May 22, 2016 at 23:41
  • Can you post photos of what the oven provides for wiring?
    – ThreePhaseEel
    Commented May 23, 2016 at 0:14
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    Honestly this whole thing seems gypsy. I'd go to the oven proper and see what it requires, you need to provide your circuit protection in the service panel rather than at an intermediate point like this. The clock/timer does not need separate circuit protection. What is the make and model of the oven?
    – Harper - Reinstate Monica
    Commented May 23, 2016 at 0:14

2 Answers 2

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The fuse box appears to be superfluous -- standard 4-wire 120/240VAC ovens do not need this sort of rigging. It appears that some antiquated built-in ovens brought their control circuit hot out separately from the oven element hots, hence the fuse box.

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  • If your oven has 5 wire hookup (White,black,neutral,ground and 1 more line), you may need a fuse box like this. It also seems to be a Canadian specific issue as all found example were Canadian.
    – beast
    Commented May 25, 2016 at 15:04
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Are the pictures ones for your oven? If so it's a bit confusing that the oven control panel wiring is shown intact and the fuse box picture doesn't show this wire coming in. I assume the fuse box was disconnected from the oven for some reason? The schematic of a similar oven looks appropriate with red/black/white/green coming into the fuse block box but this schematic uses a Yellow for control. The oven control panel pictured is taking off one leg of the 220V power for use as the 120V control power. I would ignore connecting the 15A fuse and connect the red and black to the 30A fuses. White power and white from oven control to the fuse box connection block center terminal and the red and black power to the connection block red and black going to the fuses.

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  • All images are indeed the oven in question. It was bought used and disconected. I have hesitations about not wiring the 15a for fear of damaging the electronics.
    – beast
    Commented May 23, 2016 at 14:27

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