I was told that I could find some angle brackets to secure the post to the beam. However, I'm finding nothing that doesn't require me to remove the set beam and start over. What is code? Is this going to be a custom / metal shop deal at this point? I'm fine with a black angle bracket that I can paint to match other hardware in this area of the house. Thoughts?

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  • Are you looking for something that stays showing, or will you be covering the posts/beams with drywall and/or trim?
    – DrewJordan
    Commented May 6, 2016 at 12:33
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    Required to remove the set beam and start over? First allow me to display my own ignorance, but what is a "set beam"? If you mean just "beam", it's difficult to believe that's necessary. Why are you thinking that you need to remove the beam to install an angle bracket? Indeed usually walls are fastened together before they are erected, but that doesn't mean you can put nails in them afterward. It would be impossible to build any house if you couldn't add fasteners after a wall was erected. Just make sure everything is level and plumb, and make sure your bracket is appropriate for this task. Commented May 6, 2016 at 13:11
  • Note: There was a supporting wall here. Seat beam - as in a beam that is set on the posts, but not fastened to the posts. This required we made a make-shift temporary beam with 3 posts and bottle jacks. It took 5 of us to set that beam in place and I'd rather not remove it to put brackets on. The reason I was thinking I'd have to, is because all I'm finding are wrap type brackets like this one: fastenersplus.com/…
    – maplemale
    Commented May 6, 2016 at 14:52
  • DrewJordan, Looking for something that would be showing - I guess? I found a fabrication shop that would do flat angle brackets out of 1/8inch iron, 8"x8"2&1/2" $20 each. That was their suggestion. There's no building inspection going on for this. I live a bit remote & didn't bother with a permit. That said, I'd like it to be something that would conceivably pass an inspection if there was one. We do have the potential for earthquakes here though it's very rare. We DO get tornadoes yearly.
    – maplemale
    Commented May 6, 2016 at 15:39
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    This sounds like a shopping issue. Google "angle bracket post and beam". Click the images and I think that you will find what you are looking for. I think something 1/8" thick should be ok if it's wide, but post and beam houses are "engineered" so I am just going to recommend a website: shortrunpro.com/BracketCalculators.aspx Commented May 6, 2016 at 18:35

3 Answers 3


Plenty of 1950s/60s gluelam post and beam that are attached with a straight steel heavy strap going from the post to the beam, with bolts through to one on the other side. No need for an angle-bracket, per se. They could also be lag bolted in, but through-bolting with machine bolts and nuts is what I've seen on those buildings. Then again, a stock nailplate truss connector would probably also work (if you need anything - might depend on your earthquake exposure, but then you get back to "what did the engineer specify?")


The question is vague, but here are my "thoughts":

In all my years of remodeling, never did we use metal brackets in cases like this. I've opened many dozens of rooms with larger beams than were originally built into the home, and we always simply fastened the beams in place with nails. Toenail into the king and trimmer studs and call it good.

The beam isn't going anywhere. The only way it could is if the supporting framing somehow shifted. If your studs are also fastened in place, there's no concern.

If you really want to bracket them in place, any old metal bar or strap will do. You may want to chisel out a channel for them, though, so they don't hold out the drywall and cause a bulge.


We don't toenail beams to posts anymore. We've learned that wind (you say you live in a tornado area) and seismic will destroy a toenailed connection. The Code does not give strength (resistance) values for toenails.

There are several types/designs for this application. I'd go to Simpson Strong-Tie website: www.strongtie.com or local lumberyard and try: LCE4 for 4x and 6x posts, or ACE4 (similar), or My favorite and it's decorative: APL4 and comes in black. (There are larger versions, but this will work on your columns.)

In any event, I strongly recommend a bracket. That's an important connection in your house. Don't rely on "toenails".

  • If the structure that the beam supports lifts or moves enough to cause catastrophic displacement of the beam itself, whether the beam stays put seems a bit academic, don't you think?
    – isherwood
    Commented May 1, 2017 at 23:36
  • @isherwood We design to meet the Code. Don't you think it's important to meet the structural requirements of the Code? The International Code Council (ICC) does not have values for toenails. In fact, no one does. My beam with connectors will last a lot longer than your toenails in a disaster...I bet. Promoting toenailing is irresponsible.
    – Lee Sam
    Commented May 1, 2017 at 23:59

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