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Had water overflow into bedroom and closet. New laminate floor removed. Concrete floor has glue strips from another flooring that is sticky in some places. Will thoroughly clean with as little water as possible

Q. When all cleaning is done and floor dries for a week, Can I seal the concrete and begin covering? I know the floor will not be completely dry in a week.

I am thinking of painting the floor or trying the paper floor as water seems to be a problem 3rd time, no children. Is Dry Lock or Bone Dry best as I have serious allergies. Thanks

  • How about speeding drying with fan and/or heater? – DrMoishe Pippik Oct 14 '16 at 1:54
  • I have epoxy painted several basements that turned out to be a great way to seal the floor from winter moisture. – Ed Beal Aug 29 '17 at 16:53
  • Can moisture escape the concrete floor from below? – peufeu Nov 6 '17 at 16:57
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Had the same issue, used a sealant (couple of coats), then an underlayment (vapor barrier), which worked well on my laminate flooring. Suggest you use a fan and dehumidifier during those high humidity days.

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I wouldn't worry too much about the sticky, as long as it doesn't have any thickness to it. It will hold the laminate underlay in place!

I don't see the need to paint the floor unless you're expecting further damp from underneath and then I'd fit a polythene layer instead, in fact I'd fit it anyway.

Re the damp, it's risky to cover anything damp lest you get mould. At the very least, heat and vent it as much as you can for as long as you can and then maybe leave off the skirting boards for a while so any residual damp can at least escape to air.

  • I have successfully sealed quite a few damp floors using 2 part epoxy in the summer months. Nothing to allow mold with this method a poly layer just traps water under the plastic, the water moves to the walls and high humidity and rot are what I have found. I think it is much better to seal. – Ed Beal Feb 19 at 15:18
  • Agree about the mould not forming with epoxy but, I'd have thought that if there was water under a floor it will find a way out regardless. Sealing the top or putting polythene on it essentially does the same thing; i.e. stops moisture from penetrating from underneath. I think the water will still move to the sides, because what's to stop it? – handyman Feb 19 at 23:44
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    we don't know if this is just a slab or a basement slab. I have sealed both in my own homes and customers that had high humidity & damp floors with no other problems. Basements or the ones we built have footing drains, the epoxy prevents the moisture problem in my opinion by not letting it in and as the volume increases if it dose forces the water to the footing drains or this is what I believe is happening. – Ed Beal Feb 19 at 23:59
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Heat and vent it as much as you can, for as long as you can. I'd give it as long as it needs, plus a few days so that the residual damp can escape completely. (Otherwise you can end up with all sorts of little problems)

I agree that you shouldn't need to paint the floor and it should dry out fine as long as it is given enough time to dry completely before it is recovered.

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Yes a heater or dehumidifier should be used to speed things up. Most laminate or wood floors installed on concrete used a cushion sheet that is also a vapor barrier. But this is primarily for moisture coming from below. If you are worried about a reoccurance of water overflow a different flooring choice is advised.

  • Concur: moving air (it doesn't need to be warm air) will help dry the slab much faster. – whiskeychief Mar 19 at 11:23

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