If your device is drawing too much power, and is causing the breaker to trip. It means the device is too large for the circuit, and the breaker is doing the job it was designed to do. Making an "automatic breaker turner on-er" is not likely the best solution.
There's two possibilities for why you'd trip the thermal protection of a circuit breaker. If the breaker is faulty, it could be tripping at a lower current than it is designed to trip at. In this case, the solution is to replace the breaker. If the breaker is not faulty, it means that your device is drawing a sufficient amount of current, for long enough to trip the breaker. If this is the case, then your circuit is likely undersized.
If your device is tripping the magnetic protection of the circuit breaker, there's a larger problem with the circuit and/or device. The magnetic protection of a circuit breaker should not kick in, unless the circuit is drawing many times the rated current (think short-circuit). If this is the case, you likely have a faulty device and/or wiring.
If your device is tripping the GFCI or AFCI protection of the breaker, then you'll have to investigate that further. If the device is connected to a surge protector, the normal functioning of the surge suppressor may cause a GFCI device to trip.
You'll likely want to start by monitoring the system to determine the normal current draw, as well as the peak current draw. From there, you can decide how to proceed. Without knowing the actual current draw, or why the breaker is tripping. There's not much you can do to remedy the situation.
It's not likely that an "automatic breaker turner on-er" exists, or ever would exist. What if there was a major problem causing the breaker to trip, and you continually remotely reset it? You're not there, so you can't see that a couple wires came loose and are laying in a pool of gasoline. You keep resetting the breaker, which causes an arc between the gasoline soaked wires. You'll probably continue to try and reset the breaker, as your house burns to the ground.
It's not clear to me whether or not this is a single device, or multiple devices. Dividing the load across multiple individual 20 ampere circuits, might be a solution. This is much more straight forward if you're powering multiple devices, though is not impossible if it's a single device.
While reclosers do exist, they are only used on the distribution side of the electrical system. They are not available for residential systems, for the reasons mentioned above.
Circuit breaker thermal protection
The thermal protection device within a circuit breaker is quite basic, yet also quite effective. It simply opens the circuit when it gets too hot, which is hopefully before the branch circuit wires are burning. It makes no difference what type of load is connected, if the wires are getting too hot, the thermal protection opens the circuit.
This is the reason why conductor size matters. If you have 12 AWG copper conductors connected to a 20 ampere breaker, the thermal protection will open before the wires are burning (as long as the breaker is functioning properly). If you had smaller wire connected to the 20 ampere breaker, there's a possibility that the wire could be on fire before the thermal protection kicks in.