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My Kenmore washer is Kenmore Elite 110.22952102 (Top Load washer). In the perm press cycle at the end the clothes are wet. Below is my troubleshooting observation on the unit, based on it, could you please point me to the part that needs the repair and how to go about repairing it.

  1. During the washer cycle, the agitator rotates and washes the cloth properly.
  2. The end cycle (Spin cycle), agitator doesn't rotate and also the tub doesn't spin either. However at the end of the spin cycle all the water is drained.

Please assist me.

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I fix my own stuff, but don't know about your washer. However, a quick search revealed this to be a common problem & I ran across an old blog that matched your symptoms perfectly. Kenmore washer won't spin out all water from clothes.

Although, the parts involved in resolving the multiple problems, appear to total more than $300 for the parts alone. You can call a local Appliance Repairer for their estimate for the typical course of action for this common problem. But, based on just parts cost I'd suggest getting a new washer with a new warranty.

  • This is a common problem and someone should tie related questions together. They developed a 'neutral drain' which disables spin until the water has drained. This requires that the motor pauses (stops completely) between drain and spin. The timer can have problems that lose this pause. Open/close lid or push/pull timer knob will stop the motor long enough to get it to spin. Problem is typ not in clutch, gearbox, or lid switch. – amI Sep 19 '17 at 20:04
  • This site does pretty well, as long as Kenmore Washer is in the question title. The only real advice is, to only buy the cheapest model and design with as few functions and lights. Planned obsolescence is now forced obsolescence and still no-one cares, especially the Greenies. Plastic where metal should be (and was) remedies a lot of the problems. The other problems go away with the Board of Directors, CEO and "Computer Engineers", whom apparently never built nor used anything in their lives but have "fixed" everything. – Iggy Sep 20 '17 at 12:13
  • Kenmore isn't the only one with the neutral drain problem. I agree that many machines are scrapped, or users put up with problems, because no one is aware of the specific mfg defects. That is where Stack Exchange can make a difference. – amI Sep 22 '17 at 20:19
  • No, S.E. can't make a difference. Most of the Answerers contradict themselves from question to question. I've pointed it out numerous times and had been suspended for it and always ganged-up on by the moderator driven cliques. That's why I only stop by anymore while only responding to a comment and will likely delete all of my answers before I get out altogether. – Iggy Sep 22 '17 at 20:27
  • It would be worth looking at the motor coupling to see if it needs to be replaced. But if the gearbox is broken, it's time to consider a new washing machine unless you really like fixing things. – mrog Aug 20 '18 at 18:28
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I have the same washer, had the same problem. The washer will not spin fast and drain unless the lid is closed. When you close the lid, a small pin on the lid contacts a normally open toggle switch that allows the washer to spin and drain. This switch is a safety measure to ensure nothing and no one could stick their hand into the washer. The drum spins so fast that if, for example, the lid was open and someone stuck their hand in and their sleeve got caught on the spinning agitator, the washer could instantly twist, mangle, or severely injure the arm. In your case it is also possible that the metal tab protruding from the lid is deformed and not contacting the safety switch for some reason.

If you are daring or do not plan on stupidly opening the lid during the spin/rinse cycle then you may repair this problem AT YOUR OWN RISK:

SIMPLE/LAZY/QUICK: The lid safety switch must be activated in some way, you can jam something in the hole so that the washer always thinks the lid is closed.

MORE RELIABLE: This is the repair I did personally for my Kenmore washer. I opened the unit to access the switch and wiring. There were multiple fractures, cracks, and missing pieces of the plastic switch housing in my unit so it was not salvageable. I discarded the broken housing and simply joined the wires together to create a permanently closed connection. I made sure to solder the connection, insulate the joint completely, and secure the wires to a safe mounting location away from any moving parts. My Washer still works today. If you are handy and do not want to pay a technician a few hundred dollars to replace the part you have this option.

BEST, MOST RELIABLE, AND SAFEST SOLUTION: If you have the skills find the exact part number for the switch and replace it yourself or call Kenmore and schedule a repair service.

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    The switch you are referring to is quite common and inexpensive. I've replaced mine 3 (I think) times. No big deal. I definitely do NOT recommend a permanent override - in addition to the "something got caught" problem, if you have a drain problem then you want to be able to quickly & easily stop the drain cycle by lifting the lid - trust me, I've been there. – manassehkatz May 4 '18 at 20:58
  • In the washers I've owned, there's just a single motor for both the agitator and pump, and the lid switch cuts the power to the motor. So, if the water's draining, then it's not a problem with the switch. (Although, those switches fail so often, it would be worth taking a look at it anyway as preventative maintenance.) – mrog Aug 20 '18 at 18:26

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